2000 2.5L Sport Starter hit and miss
#11
Well, the starter finally gave up. I'd like to get it removed before heading to AutoZone and save the back and forth for the core charge.
I'm replacing it this weekend but need a little cheat sheet before I slide my 64 year old body underneath.
I have ramps to elevate the front end and a hydraulic jack to support the starter.
I may use the jack to raise the right side and slide the ramp under the wheel if I can't get one more start out of it.
First off is to disconnect the negative battery cable.
Any help on socket sizes would be greatly appreciated so I'm prepared with the correct tools the first time under.
My tool selection should be adequate with both metric and standard.
Thanks all for any assistance!
I'm replacing it this weekend but need a little cheat sheet before I slide my 64 year old body underneath.
I have ramps to elevate the front end and a hydraulic jack to support the starter.
I may use the jack to raise the right side and slide the ramp under the wheel if I can't get one more start out of it.
First off is to disconnect the negative battery cable.
Any help on socket sizes would be greatly appreciated so I'm prepared with the correct tools the first time under.
My tool selection should be adequate with both metric and standard.
Thanks all for any assistance!
#12
There's only 2 bolts holding the starter to the bellhousing. You'll need 15mm, 13mm, and 10mm short and deep sockets and 3" and 6" extension. It weighs about 8 pounds, that doesn't seem like much until you are bench pressing it. Note if there are any shims between the starter and bellhousing.
(If you've never done a mopar starter before, they bolt to the transmission, not the engine)
(If you've never done a mopar starter before, they bolt to the transmission, not the engine)
#14
OH, there is also a bushing in one of the starter holes. Keep it, don't return with the core.
If the starter has been previously done, the stud may have been swapped for a bolt, or the bolt for a stud. I think top is stud and bottom is bolt, I could be backwards. It's been a while since i did a stock starter. Also, the bellhousing threads are probably english, but the bolts seemed metric to me. On my SFI bell they are english (5/16-18 or 3/8-16 I think?) so I put new grade 8 bolts in and called it good.
#15
#17
When I pulled the engine all I remember was two bolts that bolt up into the block and they were in extremely hard.
Revers torex bolts very special size bolts large head so if you damage them bad news it took an electric gun with a socket hammered on it to remove it a hammer on socket.
Revers torex bolts very special size bolts large head so if you damage them bad news it took an electric gun with a socket hammered on it to remove it a hammer on socket.
Last edited by 98DAKAZ; 01-05-2020 at 10:09 AM.
#18
#19
You do have a different trans in a 2000 but the starter should be the same my 98 has the AX-15 trans the starter bolts to the block.
OK JUST IGNORE my info just looked at starters for a 2000 2.5 very different the starter must bolt to an adapter plate or directly to the NV-1500 trans.
What do ya know
The 2-nd gen Dakotas went through constant modifications from 98 to 2004 every year things changed.
OK JUST IGNORE my info just looked at starters for a 2000 2.5 very different the starter must bolt to an adapter plate or directly to the NV-1500 trans.
What do ya know
The 2-nd gen Dakotas went through constant modifications from 98 to 2004 every year things changed.
Last edited by 98DAKAZ; 01-05-2020 at 10:52 AM.