CTM question
Okay, so I'm a newb to these Dakotas, learning as I go. My truck is a '98 5.2, auto, 2wd, power everything. I got it about a month ago.
The truck sat maybe a week or so, went to start it, nothing, no crank, only light on the dash that lights is 'brake'. I'm getting a clicking sound from the pass side of dash, by glove box, constant about once a second, is this the CTM I've heard so much about? The battery tested in good condition, connections good, truck still won't start.
Where do I start? If the the CTM needs replacing, is it a simple swap, or does it need programming?
The truck sat maybe a week or so, went to start it, nothing, no crank, only light on the dash that lights is 'brake'. I'm getting a clicking sound from the pass side of dash, by glove box, constant about once a second, is this the CTM I've heard so much about? The battery tested in good condition, connections good, truck still won't start.
Where do I start? If the the CTM needs replacing, is it a simple swap, or does it need programming?
Is it clicking once per second with key off and removed, and thus killing the battery? If so, yes it is faulty. Common issue. Getting to it is a small PITA. For a 98, I don't think programming is required. Those years it didn't do much.
But the CTM itself, even being faulty, won't cause a no-start.
But the CTM itself, even being faulty, won't cause a no-start.
Yes, with the key out of ignition there is the ticking/clicking sound. What's weird is that the warning lights on the gauges that light when you first start the truck aren't illuminating, dome lights work, but the lights and windows don't work, basically all electrical items.
From experience, a clicking CTM will take a battery from a full 14 volts to 8 volts in about 2-4 hours depending on factors. It literally requires pulling the battery cable when you park. It's scary how much current draw a bad CTM has, for how tiny the wires are.
*update*
I replaced the CTM, still had the same issue, although the new one for lock the doors after driving a bit, the old one didn't.
I replaced the starter after finding the small of the 2 posts on it was actually loose in the body of the starter.
Still had the same issue, no start, one click and all power lost, except for the CTM ticking.
Started moving the battery cables, ticking stopped while I moved the neg cable. Turns out the cables were not getting a good connection. It's a replacement end, the one you sandwich the copper strands between the connection and plate. I undid it, wire brushed all the pieces to shiny metal, then reassembled, and bam, truck started right up and runs great.
Did I need a new CTM? Probably not, but at least now I have matching spare, just in case. Lesson learned, make sure all parts are clean, shiny, bright metal.
Next job, ***** joints!
I replaced the CTM, still had the same issue, although the new one for lock the doors after driving a bit, the old one didn't.
I replaced the starter after finding the small of the 2 posts on it was actually loose in the body of the starter.
Still had the same issue, no start, one click and all power lost, except for the CTM ticking.
Started moving the battery cables, ticking stopped while I moved the neg cable. Turns out the cables were not getting a good connection. It's a replacement end, the one you sandwich the copper strands between the connection and plate. I undid it, wire brushed all the pieces to shiny metal, then reassembled, and bam, truck started right up and runs great.
Did I need a new CTM? Probably not, but at least now I have matching spare, just in case. Lesson learned, make sure all parts are clean, shiny, bright metal.
Next job, ***** joints!










