It lands pretty true. With no slop in the rack it should just be a matter of getting the tie rods on the same page. That is where I end up with lopsided thread engagement. It's been a doozy

 

That's just weird. I would love to have a look at that. Where ya at?

 

Normally I would blame this on a poorly rebuilt rack being off a tooth. But since you kept the same rack, I am puzzled.

Do both inner and outer tie-rods measure the same? I know in some parts books they are marked left and right, I wonder if they are staggered lengths.

 

The inners and outers are the same length. There is a left and right outer but they're the same length just mirror image. They're on correctly but I did try switching them around to see if it made a difference. Wasn't any better. Not sure if they rubbed on anything when I flipped them

 

If the inners are the same length as the old ones and the outers are the same....i'm toast.

 

Yeah it's been a bit of a mind fork. The only item left I have to play is getting caster and camber as far in spec as I can go. If I could gain another half inch of thread on the driver's side with the wheel straight I'd be happy. The slots in both upper control arms do have space to move in. But they also have space to move out. Seems like I should still be within spec for both tie rods to engage properly. If I set maximum negative camber (within spec) and minimum positive caster (within spec), both upper control arms should be able to move in 1/4" on either side. My tie rods may not move in quite as much being a bit lower than the uppermost pivot point but I would think it could be enough to get me where I need to go. Another item I haven't checked because of my uneven dirt driveway is ride height. The truck appears to sit even but my eyes are only so good. If ride height, caster and camber are all out enough in the wrong way I could see it causing a shorter engagement on the corresponding side. I'm surprised by how many things on this truck have been a mystery over my 6 years of ownership. I feel like a Dakota pioneer half the time. Finding a parking brake cable setup for this particular model was near impossible. As was frame side stamped body mounts (one source). No answers on the whistling pcv valve either. Maybe I'll schedule a full on caster camber toe ride height alignment and babysit the guy. Last time I brought my truck in to get tires and an alignment, they couldn't seat the bead on any of the new tires. I had to show/ perform the starter fluid grill lighter trick in the parking lot. Then babysit the guy in the alignment rack so he didn't twist that tie rod out too far. He couldn't get it in spec so no charge for the "alignment" and they gave me a significant discount for mounting my own tires. This is the only thing I don't do myself and I had to do it myself anyways. Sorry about the rant

 

the rack/ tie rod ends have NOTHING to do with the caster adjustment. NOT AT ALL!!!! and I know what you mean about some shops having incompetent help. being a former alignment guy myself it took me 3 shops to find a good one now that I can't do my own any more.

 

Right but could caster and cambrr adjustment play a very small role in tie rod/rack position?Adjusting camber in on the top brings the whole spindle in a small amount at an angle. Caster could also bring the spindle in possibly due to the style of adjustment. Each arm of each upper control arm (4 attachment points) can be adjusted individually towards or away from the center of the vehicle. Each attachment point is an oblong hole. I'll be replacing the steering shaft tomorrow just to rule it out.

 

Nope. The rack is mounted solid to the frame, only way it could move was if the bushings we're shot or the mount bolts were missing, or the frame was bent/broke.
and for you saying that all 4 control arms are slotted, um, no. Only the uppers.
The only possible thing I can think of is that somewhere in the steering system you got some incorrect parts. Whether they were missing marked or cataloged wrong, or the parts guy was an idiot...
Or something somewhere is bent.
And yes, all 3 adjustable alignment factors will affect the others, (when a customer would diy their own parts they would usually come in way out of whack, I'd sometimes have to set adjustments "close" so that I could set the others. You want to set camber/and caster 1st (because the same adjustment points change both readings) then set toe last.
i know on some GMs (yeah I Know) if they had or didn't have a certain performance package the outer tie rods were different lengths on a given car. I work on lots of newer impalas and those with the FE3 package have outer tie rod ends that are about 3/4" longer while the inners are all the same. If you put the longer outers on and "count threads" the front wheels will be WAY toed in. If the ones for "without" are used on a car "with", you will only get a couple of threads engaged, which is absolutely no good

Just throwing that out there fir something to think about

 

When I say the rack could be shifted I mean the rack inside the housing not that the housing is moving. Bushings aren't showing any flex when I watch with the wheel being turned. Yes only the upper control arms have adjustment but each upper control arm has 2 mounting location. So there are 4 upper attachment points that can be brought in or out independently. 2 per side, only on the upper. I measured all new parts against the old parts. Everything is the same. I even measured other brands of tie rod ends designated to fit this truck. I was hoping there would be more options based on submodel but they all measure out the same. I was hoping I had the wrong part but no such luck.