So I currently have the heads off the block and am now considering pulling the pan to ensure the engine has a clear start when its re assembled. This should just be pulling the starter, removing the trans and convertor bolts, and engine bolt mounts? I am also thinking pulling the remainder of the block will allow for better cleaning of the block surface

 

By pulling the block, you can get to things that are difficult with it in the truck, like the expansion plugs on the sides as well as plugs on the back of the block that you just can't get to with it in the truck. With it mounted on an engine stand, not only will everything be handy to work on, you can rinse the block out with the side plugs removed. You might be surprised at how much rust and sand from the casting process is still in the block. The last engine I rinse, it filled a 5 gallon bucket half full with trash. You might want to remove the transmission too. This will let you clean it and replace the pan gasket as well as the front and rear seals. Any time I pull or replace an engine, I put a new front seal in the transmission. It's several hours aggravation to replace a $25-30 part when it leaks later.

 

no don't pull the pan before you pull the block. it aint happenin on this series truck especially if 2wd. engine has to be out to get pan off. if 4wd you can pull front diff out and then get pan out with engine still in the chassis but lotsa extra work especially if engine is coming out for other reasons "anyway".

 

It's a 4x4, and I figured at this point with it being a 4.7l and all the horrific oil buildup in the heads it wouldn't be a bad idea to pull it.

 

Also which seals are you referring to? I do have plans to do the trans pan and filter. Something has a horrible leak there.

 

4.7=unfamiliar territory for me have typically avoided those. and probably will til the last 318/360 on the face of the earth goes belly up.....

 

Also can any suggest some lift points for my hoist without having any heads on the block? Part if me wants to use the old head bolts (I have new ones)

 

There is a seal on the torque converter where it goes into the transmission. If this is leaking, you get a bunch of oil from the front pump in the unit. You can bet the oil pan is nasty. Here's the last 4.7 I worked on.



You can pull the pan on a 2wd but I'm thinking you might just want to pull the engine and transmission as a unit. This will let you clean everything and replace the the gaskets that are hard to get to.
In regards to another post, you can bolt the chain to the block. Just use shorter bolts that are grade 8. I've seen lateral strain on really long bolts bend or break them. Just be gentle and patient and it will come out. The hardest part is making sure all the lines and linkages are clear.

 

Well not using the head bolt holes I guess, they happen to be some oddball size m11-1.5 or something. Guess I'm going to be looking for some beefy holes on the side of the block

 

I haven't worked on many 4.7's. I hope I don't work on anymore either. Some engines had metal tabs with a large hole for lifting. Any stout section of metal will work. I think you mentioned you had new head bolts. You can try using the old ones. Use several per side and spread the weight around several.