Hey all -
I had my 2.5L engine rebuilt 2-1/2 years ago. I've got 10,000 miles roughly on it. It's a 2000 Dakota Sport longbed.
I need to change the battery cable to the starter and to gain easier access for my arthritic hands I need to remove the oil filter. So I may as well change the oil myself rather that take it in.
I'm going to use a cheap filter to make sure that when I hook everything back up, it was indeed the cable. If it's the starer, I'll take the filter off and change it again. The starter is only a year old!
What is the proper weight I should use at this mileage? Do I use synthetic or just a standard oil? I'm in Oklahoma and we're in the middle of the coldest temps in 25 years. Hot summers, cold winter this year.
Thanks!

 

Ehhh, we had temps close to zero in the last year or two in Oklahoma, and a few years back when had about 2 weeks where the high was about 18-20 and the low was single digits. New rebuild with 10K miles, go ahead and use synthetic. I always recommend Quaker State oil with Wix/Napa Gold filters, which I've been using with zero problems for over 35 years now. You can use the recommended oil for the truck, which I believe is 5W30. It would have to get below zero before you'd need to worry about oil weight. If you're really concerned, you can move down one on the low number, to 0W30.

Rather than use a cheap filter, just reuse the old oil filter for the starter cable test. Oil filters can be removed and reused on the same engine within the filter's useful lifespan provided it's not damaged upon removal. Also, make sure to check both ends of the cable, not just the starter side, and check for corrosion on both battery terminals. If the cable needs to be replaced, welding cable makes a superior replacement. A welding supply store will sell it at a reasonable cost, along with the correct lugs and the hammer-activated crimping tool. The lugs may not be the exact size needed for the hole, if not you can get one size smaller and drill the hole out.

 

Just FYI, removing the oil filter will not drain all the oil, in case that's what you're thinking. It will only drain what's in the filter and what's in the line being held back by the anti-drainback valve. This is not much oil.

I second the Quaker State recommendation and I believe your weight is 10W30, but even better to move to 5W30. The full syn is called Quaker State Ultimate Durability and you won't find it in 0W30. It's less than $20 for the big jug at Walmart, at least around here. I run it in 0W20 weight and am almost @ 320K with no rebuilds.

 

Good info, thanks, Vimes!

 

Walmart sounds like the plan. Oil, filter, wrench, all in one place.
Thanks, Dodgevity! I was kinda worried about how much oil I'd be going through.

 

Yeah, you really don't have to change the oil if it's not time yet.

BTW, Walmart also has the Fram Ultra, which is an excellent oil filter. Not to be mistaken with the orange can of death, it's got wire-backed full synthetic media and other good features. Highly liked by BITOG members.

 

THAT, is also good to know being that Wally doesn't carry the Wix.

 

I should post in a new thread but…
The new battery cable connection to the starter, which prompted me to replace the oil filter, doesn't have the positive cable eyelet terminal wire that goes to the solenoid. Any easy solution? None of the one size fits all cables had one.
Damn!

 

I guess I can take the wire to the solenoid that is on the old battery cable (still laying next to the new one) and crimp that solenoid wire to the new cable).

 

I was not aware of that. Course, I never looked for it either . Everything I have takes 5W30 or 0W20.

Looks like 0W30 is available in Mobil One though. Mobil One oil is also pretty good, and I have used it on occasion when Quaker State wasn't available. Sometimes I have to order QS 0W20. Both are fine oils, it just comes down to preference between them.

Edit - Sorry about the bad link, fixed.