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Using '83-'95 SRC-9 2.5L Jeep camshaft in '96-'02 MFI 2.5 Dakota

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Old 05-29-2021, 11:05 PM
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Default Using '83-'95 SRC-9 2.5L Jeep camshaft in '96-'02 MFI 2.5 Dakota

Anyone have experience with using a SRC-9 camshaft from a '83 to '95 Jeep 2.5L in '96 to '01 Dakota MFI 2.5L engine?

Any fitment issues? I believe the cams (other than the lobe profile) are physically the same. Can anyone confirm this?

Will it work with the factory programmed ECM in the 2001 Dakota? Any issues with setting the MIL and not passing a smog check?


Original factory cam specs: 188I/192E @ .050 lift, advertised duration 256I/260E, lobe lift .255I/.259E, valve lift w/1.6 to 1 rockers .407I/.415E, C/L 108I/108E
SRC-9 cam specs: 196I/196E @ .050 lift, advertised duration 270I/270E, lobe lift .265I/.265E, valve lift w/1.6 to 1 rockers .424I/.424E, C/L 114I/110E

I don't want to order something I can't use :-)
Thanks.
 
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Old 05-30-2021, 02:52 AM
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First is why are you doing this?

I installed a new slight better grind with Comp cams just call my Dakota is a 98 not sure they have one for you but call ask.

they can't do much but a little better because it needs to work with the computer parameters.

I DIY rebuilt my 98 2.5 myself 0.040 over pistons better cam and self ported heads with 1mm bigger performance valves.

no smog problems always pass it's a California smog Dakota.
 

Last edited by 98DAKAZ; 05-30-2021 at 06:25 PM.
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Old 05-30-2021, 03:55 AM
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I am currently doing a complete rebuild on my 2001 2.5 due to a cracked piston skirt.
I planned to replace the factory camshaft, even though it is fine, as it has over 100K.
Since I will need to purchase a new cam and lifters prior to reassembly anyway, I figured it would be a good time to upgrade the cam profile as well.

Everything, I have read and pictures I have viewed, have led me to believe the SCR-9 cam should physically bolt in fine.

Since, the 2001 2.5L had no thrust plate or cam bolt/pin to keep the cam from walking forward, I already purchased a cam bolt with the pin to install.
That being the case, I need to make sure the ECM will not have an issue with the replacement camshaft.

Any idea what the profile looked like on the cam you installed in your Dakota?

I appreciate any info you can give me on the subject.
 
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Old 05-30-2021, 06:26 PM
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this is all I have



 

Last edited by 98DAKAZ; 05-30-2021 at 06:49 PM.
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Old 05-30-2021, 06:41 PM
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with my build quality parts was a big problem most out there are ok at best some not so good I would buy about 3 more hydraulic lifter than you need two were so so quality same main bearings took 3 sets before I was happy with the fit. Be careful replacing anything that it actual is the correct part give every new part an inspection and be sure it matches 100% to what came out.

you may be surprised by the differences in some parts and how they vary in small ways to the OEM parts.

On that cam I would not use it the years difference is big because of the different computers.

it will fit no problem but play with the computer NO.

Call comp cams

The COMP cam works great but my distributor was offset just a little on installation PITA to install.
 

Last edited by 98DAKAZ; 05-30-2021 at 06:52 PM.
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Old 05-30-2021, 07:11 PM
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I custom ported the stock intake manifold drastically to allow the 63mm throttle body and ported head to breath.

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Old 05-31-2021, 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by 98DAKAZ
with my build quality parts was a big problem most out there are ok at best some not so good I would buy about 3 more hydraulic lifter than you need two were so so quality same main bearings took 3 sets before I was happy with the fit. Be careful replacing anything that it actual is the correct part give every new part an inspection and be sure it matches 100% to what came out.

you may be surprised by the differences in some parts and how they vary in small ways to the OEM parts.

On that cam I would not use it the years difference is big because of the different computers.

it will fit no problem but play with the computer NO.

Call comp cams

The COMP cam works great but my distributor was offset just a little on installation PITA to install.
I did some research on your Comp Cams profile and added it to the comparison below.
It profile doesn't look to be too far from the SRC-9 cam profile.
I'm not sure why the advertised duration is so much longer on the SRC-9 while the duration at .050 lift is less.
Otherwise, it looks like it's pretty close to yours. Did your cam require a spring change or any head work? You said your cam worked fine with your stock ECM, right?

Original factory cam specs:.. 188I/192E @ .050 lift, advertised duration 256I/260E, lobe lift .255I/.259E, valve lift w/1.6 to 1 rockers .407I/.415E, C/L 108I/108E
SRC-9 cam specs:............... 196I/196E @ .050 lift, advertised duration 270I/270E, lobe lift .265I/.265E, valve lift w/1.6 to 1 rockers .424I/.424E, C/L 114I/110E
Your cam specs: ..................200I/206E @ .050 lift, advertised duration 248I/252E, lobe lift .260I/.270E, valve lift w/1.6 to 1 rockers .416I/.433E, C/L 116I/113E

BTW... Great pictures of your intake porting job. I'll probably at least match my intake and head ports while I have it off the engine.
 
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Old 05-31-2021, 01:45 PM
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No spring changes for the cam.

If you want any improvement that's not to much money get a 62mm throttle body and port the intake manifold for it.

If you can find a good same year used jeep 4.0 throttle body its a direct fit just be sure to swap over the tps map and iac.

Better is take the jeep tb and have it bored out to a 62mm tb.

link = https://www.ebay.com/itm/11474023764...oAAOSwbqpT6jU7

Or buy a pre modified jeep 4.0 tb like this link = https://www.ebay.com/itm/11370506513...IAAOSwNsdXQuMo

or this = https://www.ebay.com/itm/30401215411...8AAOSwCUldV07T

just be sure the jeep 4.0 has a map port if not its an older 4.0 tb.

with all these changes it will pass smog
 

Last edited by 98DAKAZ; 05-31-2021 at 01:49 PM.
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Old 05-31-2021, 01:59 PM
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no sound ? but you will get the idea bore out manifold I just used a file.

kind of bad video

 
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Old 06-05-2021, 01:02 AM
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I will tell you this to get the most from the 2.5 takes a lot of time and money it's just a very simple low power poorly made very early engine. It needs lots of work to bring it alive and early SMOG that sucks power from it.
 


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