So my gf has a 2000 3.9 Dakota that stalls after warmed up . Typically after 10-15 mins it just dies. When trying to restart immediately it acts like no gas or spark. I had a fuel gauge on it at 46lbs the whole time. Today I replaced the crankshaft sensor. It ran much smoother and ran 25 min initially with out stalling. I put back on the air filer and it died after 10 minutes. Has anyone had similar issues? Truck has 260K on it! I guess a computer is nxt step to see if it throws a code.

 

if its running and at higher rpms does it stall? i i remember the IAC was one thing that needed to be cleaned when i had my 5.9 v8, there is also a port in the throttle body that plugs up. may just want to pull the throttle body and clean it.

 

the car was warm and a low idle. The whole time it was running with out stalling was when the air filter was off. Once I put it on it stalled in 5 minutes. It was at a low idle

 

pull the IAC and throttle body and clean them with throttle body cleaner...

 

Agree,clean up IAC an throttle body an maybe even a seafoam upper cleanup in brake booster line.
Any CEL codes?

 

getting a computer to hook up when I clean throttle body. Will post after.

 

So I replaced the crank sensor, ran smoother. Cleaned the throttle body. Initially the car ran 2 weeks ago for 25 min and did not stall. I started it this week and it died in 7 minutes. I had a computer on it and got P1035. Not sure if that was my code or an old code. Started again and it ran for 35 minutes w computer hooked up but didn't stall. I don't trust it, will have to get computer back on and see if I can get a new code. The truck has ALWAYS lost the oil pressure gages at a stop light. Once it runs they read fine, its a stick shift. Im flirting w changing gas sensor but it's $100+ to $200. It's my gfs car but pissing me off.

 

So 2000 3.9 5-spd with new crank sensor. No misfire codes, shuts off without re-fire.

My 2001 book does not show P1035 as being a valid code for any engine combination, 2000 should be the same. If you transposed numbers, P0135 is an upstream O2 sensor fault, heater circuit. That wouldn't greatly affect hot fueling, only cold fueling. Should be 4 oxygen sensors on a 2000.

Commanded idle should be 735 RPM or so at all times. As load is added (AC/PS), it opens the IAC to bring idle up.

46 psi rail pressure is good. Tolerance is 49 psi +/- 5 psi.

There is no fuel sensor on this platform, since they pre-date flex fuel. There is also no MAF, as fuel mapping is density based rather than flow based.

Oil pressure dropping at hot idle is typical. Spec is 10psi base idle plus 10 psi per 1,000 RPM over. It is a glorified on/off switch and prone for the diaphragm to get weak after 20 years.

When was the ignition coil last replaced? I recall somebody having a similar issue once due to a cracked coil, when it got hot and expanded, it lost inductive ability.

V6 is picky about crank sensor, but if it runs without mis-fire codes, it's happy.

Lack of codes makes me ignore intake air temp factoring or ASD relay failure

 

Thanks for the response. The 1st thing I did replace was the fuel pump relay, then the crank sensor. I sprayed 1/2 can of throttle body cleaner . I started the car before I hooked up the computer and it died after 7 minutes. After sitting for 5 minutes it ran for 35 minutes (w computer hooked up) and never died. No codes, I left as is. A week later, yesterday, I hooked up my new ODB II Bluetooth computer and ran the car for an hour without a stall or hick up. Its running 700 rpm's idle, vacume was like 18" ? I'm wondering if the throttle body cleaner actually worked. I ran the vehicle around the block a few times also but can't trust it. I did find a small vacuum hose was disconnected and another on the carb missing a cap. I do like ELM 327, sexy stuff.

 

Actually I was looking at a new ignition coil and distributer. It's been 6yrs/as long as I knew her never replaced. I will do that before I give it a clean bill of health