DIY Wheel Bearing Swap 2002 4x4 non-abs
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DIY Wheel Bearing Swap 2002 4x4 non-abs
Could not find a thread on this so will make a new one...
This was done on a 2002 4x4 w/o ABS
Making this thread for the next guy who is looking to swap their wheel bearing on a 2nd gen Dakota. This has got to be the easiest bearing swap I've ever had to do. After getting the old bearing out, and knowing what needs to be done, the swap could probably be done in about an hour depending on how stuck things are.
Tools
7mm Allen Socket
1 1/4" 1/2 drive socket
1/2" Breaker bar & ratchet
3/8" ratchet
Prybar or large screwdriver
Pliers
Fluid Film
Jack up truck and support with jackstand just in front of the tran cross member
Remove wheel to expose a cotter pin & axle nut cover. Remove both
Find the bolts on the back of the hub, spray with fluid film and let it soak a bit, your targeting the steering knuckle to bolt sholder joint. FF will get in there and allow it to break free easier.
Hit the slider pins as well where the boot meets the caliper (not sure if this helps but I did it anyway)
Using a 7mm allen socket, remove the slide pins.
Remove the spring clip holding in the brake caliper, remove the caliper and set it aside, support it so the brake lines are not stressed
Remove the rotor
Using an impact driver and a 1 1/4" socket, remove the axle nut. The ryobi setup will call for extra current to get the torque up there, use the strongest battery you can and make sure its fully charged. This is one of my favorite tools! That nut came off in under 30 seconds, usually it causes pain & agony doing it the hard way.
Hit the back side of the hub mounting bolts with Fluid Film and let it soak a bit. Remove all 3 when ready.
I used the 2nd jack I have to lift the allow me better access to the hub mounting bolts, lift it up as high as it will go before coming off the jack stand and the top bolt is easier to remove w/o interference. The bottom bolts required full droop for max clearance.
Note: this was the only pic I had with the jack in place.
Once the bolts are removed, remove the jack and allow the arm to drop to full droop, then whack the back of the hub with a dead blow hammer and off it comes.
Clean up the inside surface of the steering knuckle.
Use steel wool to clean up the steering knuckle mating surfaces
Apply anti-seize to the mating surfaces on the steering knuckle
Install new bearing in the reverse order to allow the bolts to go in easy, torque to spec (90 ftlb IIRC)
Install the axle nut & washer, lightly tighten using impact gun on lowest setting
Install the rotor, hold in place with 2 lug nuts
Install the caliper (& brake pad) with guide pins (I used 2 new ones on each side), grease the pins prior to install.
Install the brake retainer spring clip.
Remove wheel center cap, 2 lug nuts on the rotor and install wheel.
Drop the truck on the ground.
Torque axle nut to 180 ftlbs
Jackup truck & remove the wheel, install the center cap.
Install the nut cover and cotter pin.
Reinstall the wheel, torque to spec and drop it back down.
Done
This was done on a 2002 4x4 w/o ABS
Making this thread for the next guy who is looking to swap their wheel bearing on a 2nd gen Dakota. This has got to be the easiest bearing swap I've ever had to do. After getting the old bearing out, and knowing what needs to be done, the swap could probably be done in about an hour depending on how stuck things are.
Tools
7mm Allen Socket
1 1/4" 1/2 drive socket
1/2" Breaker bar & ratchet
3/8" ratchet
Prybar or large screwdriver
Pliers
Fluid Film
Jack up truck and support with jackstand just in front of the tran cross member
Remove wheel to expose a cotter pin & axle nut cover. Remove both
Find the bolts on the back of the hub, spray with fluid film and let it soak a bit, your targeting the steering knuckle to bolt sholder joint. FF will get in there and allow it to break free easier.
Hit the slider pins as well where the boot meets the caliper (not sure if this helps but I did it anyway)
Using a 7mm allen socket, remove the slide pins.
Remove the spring clip holding in the brake caliper, remove the caliper and set it aside, support it so the brake lines are not stressed
Remove the rotor
Using an impact driver and a 1 1/4" socket, remove the axle nut. The ryobi setup will call for extra current to get the torque up there, use the strongest battery you can and make sure its fully charged. This is one of my favorite tools! That nut came off in under 30 seconds, usually it causes pain & agony doing it the hard way.
Hit the back side of the hub mounting bolts with Fluid Film and let it soak a bit. Remove all 3 when ready.
I used the 2nd jack I have to lift the allow me better access to the hub mounting bolts, lift it up as high as it will go before coming off the jack stand and the top bolt is easier to remove w/o interference. The bottom bolts required full droop for max clearance.
Note: this was the only pic I had with the jack in place.
Once the bolts are removed, remove the jack and allow the arm to drop to full droop, then whack the back of the hub with a dead blow hammer and off it comes.
Clean up the inside surface of the steering knuckle.
Use steel wool to clean up the steering knuckle mating surfaces
Apply anti-seize to the mating surfaces on the steering knuckle
Install new bearing in the reverse order to allow the bolts to go in easy, torque to spec (90 ftlb IIRC)
Install the axle nut & washer, lightly tighten using impact gun on lowest setting
Install the rotor, hold in place with 2 lug nuts
Install the caliper (& brake pad) with guide pins (I used 2 new ones on each side), grease the pins prior to install.
Install the brake retainer spring clip.
Remove wheel center cap, 2 lug nuts on the rotor and install wheel.
Drop the truck on the ground.
Torque axle nut to 180 ftlbs
Jackup truck & remove the wheel, install the center cap.
Install the nut cover and cotter pin.
Reinstall the wheel, torque to spec and drop it back down.
Done
