Yeah, forgot about that part...and it sits so damn high. Yeah relocation would be necessary.

... or run a tube that goes from the PCV hole down the side of the cone into the bottom. Saran wrap over it so the rubber plug forms over it.

 

Like this...





could call that a Dodgevity snot plug

 

Actually, the vent tube would lay against the side of the cone, not down thru the middle. The rubber plug would form around it and have a slot in the side for the tube. The plug itself wouldn't be very tall. More like an inch or two. With the tube extending above it. Another option is to cut the bottom of the funnel off and insert the PCV valve tube directly into it, eliminating the cone. Maybe even a Y pipe that fits a funnel so you can pour oil in one side of the Y and the other is for the PCV. Unless you want to drill a hole in a valve cover and pour oil thru that.

This whole issue was caused by poor design...they overengineered it. They could have simply put an oil fill cap up top, like everyone else but they had to get elaborate.

Reminds me of my wife's BMW. It has an electric water pump, which is really cool in a way. When you replace the coolant, you run an automatic bleed process from the dash which bleeds all the air out using the electric pump. Of course the car can't be running so you should hook up a trickle charger while it does it's thing. Nice right? Now get this... the effing radiator doesn't have a drain plug for the coolant. No drain plug anywhere. You have to pull off the bottom hose which creates a holy mess unless you get creative with cardboard and plastic sheeting to direct the flow. LOL

There's more. It has no engine oil dipstick. You check the oil electronically while the car is running at operating temp. God help you if the sensors go bad. If you lose a bunch of oil, the only way to tell the level is by RUNNING THE CAR TO OPERATING TEMP and running the check from the dash. Now what sense does that make? ATF fluid... no dipstick either. Checking it is the same process as checking the diff gear oil in our trucks. Pull a plug and hope oil trickles out. Plastic transmission pan, btw. Plastic drain plug too... on a high dollar car.

 

That's the way a lot of car makers are going. In an OEM's perfect world, you'll stop in for a service check when you need anything paying through the nose for it, and when they no longer support your model at the 7 year mark you trade it in for 500 dollars off a new car - the day you send the last payment off.

 

Thought there was a pcv relocation TSB for the 4.7L, but the 4.7 Guru on youtube, Martinbuilt, has a fix :

Sludge & Freeze Problem Cure Dodge, Jeep, Chrysler & Mitsubishi 3.7 & 4.7 (PCV upgrade)

 

Just for info, changed my oil today, 4000 miles, temps at night just below freezing and daytime around 40F.
Drive to work 26 Miles when temps are around freezing and return in the afternoon at about 40F.

Oil was nice dark brown colored, just noticed i seem to lost some coolant again....no visible leeks or white exhaust gasses and overheating.
I think it's because of the cold weather and crimp on the hoses and clamps.....i sure hope so...

Made some pics of my old style oil fill cap and funnel on the engine, and as i expected, no sludge to been seen.
This tells me either the PO did not maintain this engine very well due to the service intervals, or my changed set-up for the newer style and routing of the PCV lines did the job in my case.


Old style Oil Fill Cap

Old style Funnel on engine with Deleted PCV Valve and plugged hole

New style PCV Valve ( Blue ) on the drivers side cylinder head.

 

Looks great man. Run a block test on it for the coolant loss issue. Cold weather helps u retain coolant, not lose it.

 

looks awesome, same temps that we see here. I took a peek at mine, looks clean as when i wiped it. has been parked though for about 10 days.

 

pics...


Taken 2/1/22

 

Very nice, that's a big improvement, so insulating the fillerneck does help