Preventing the 4.7 Snot in the Oil Fill tube
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Joined: Jan 2004
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yeah I am happy with it. I did add a piece of metalized tape to the inside of the cap cover to see if that would further improve it and it did. I plan to line the rest of the inside of that cap cover with the same tape soon... It just traps heat in the cover and keeps the cap plastic temp up so condensation cannot happen.
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Joined: Oct 2018
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read another guys post, that this only happens with overdue oil change intervals, he's changing his oil too at 3000miles.
When i bought it, it had a decent amount of sludge, even under the valve covers, i was expecting the PO hasn't changed the oil regulary and /or didn't used the 5W30 oil.
I changed all fluids when i bought it, because i had no history, brake. coolant, motor oil and gearbox ( automatic ).
I cleaned my TB and of course the air filter, and changed the PCV Valve system.
I put in all new lifters, this was how i could tell there was sludge under the valve covers, and i took off the filler neck to clean everything.
I do still have one or more ticking lifters, at my case at startup i hear nothing, but after a minute they are gonna tick a little bit, but when i arrive at work and engine is hot i don't hear them, i'm gonna leave it like this, i'll keep an eye on it, but in 2 years it hasn't changed or getting worse.
With last oil change i took the right valve cover taken off to check on the lifters and took them out, they all seemed okay, and there was zero sludge or black deposits in the valvetrain and cover.
I try to hold up on the intervals and change my oil somewhere between 3 or 4000 miles.
Maybe this is the reason the sludge disappeared, although i believe it was the change in PCV system i've made.
It's hard to tell, because i changed a lot of things on the same time, this is the same problem we have with the fuel economy mods.
We should only change one thing at a time to really know which will improve.....
But it's time consuming to just try one thing at a time and drive it for 2 weeks to see what's changed.
When i bought it, it had a decent amount of sludge, even under the valve covers, i was expecting the PO hasn't changed the oil regulary and /or didn't used the 5W30 oil.
I changed all fluids when i bought it, because i had no history, brake. coolant, motor oil and gearbox ( automatic ).
I cleaned my TB and of course the air filter, and changed the PCV Valve system.
I put in all new lifters, this was how i could tell there was sludge under the valve covers, and i took off the filler neck to clean everything.
I do still have one or more ticking lifters, at my case at startup i hear nothing, but after a minute they are gonna tick a little bit, but when i arrive at work and engine is hot i don't hear them, i'm gonna leave it like this, i'll keep an eye on it, but in 2 years it hasn't changed or getting worse.
With last oil change i took the right valve cover taken off to check on the lifters and took them out, they all seemed okay, and there was zero sludge or black deposits in the valvetrain and cover.
I try to hold up on the intervals and change my oil somewhere between 3 or 4000 miles.
Maybe this is the reason the sludge disappeared, although i believe it was the change in PCV system i've made.
It's hard to tell, because i changed a lot of things on the same time, this is the same problem we have with the fuel economy mods.
We should only change one thing at a time to really know which will improve.....
But it's time consuming to just try one thing at a time and drive it for 2 weeks to see what's changed.
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Removing the snot has taught me a lot about stuff I never thought of... one being the dew point and how the plastic piece there never gets hot enough to prevent dew from occurring. It also has led me down a path that may help reduce the internal engine sludge that occurs naturally. Still investigating that one. But, I think if the breathers are pulling from a warm air source the water content of that air will be reduced which should reduce the sludge formation (since oil vaper needs air (& its water content) to form sludge deposits).
Yeah I agree there should be more miles to really establish if a change is really working or not. I dont have the time or patients to go that route this time, too much on the plate. I figure if I get to the end and I meet that 20 mpg goal and it sticks, then one could pick & choose what they want to do and see how it affects their trucks performance. One thing is clear to me (again) is the flow thru the air box directly effects mpg numbers.
Yeah I agree there should be more miles to really establish if a change is really working or not. I dont have the time or patients to go that route this time, too much on the plate. I figure if I get to the end and I meet that 20 mpg goal and it sticks, then one could pick & choose what they want to do and see how it affects their trucks performance. One thing is clear to me (again) is the flow thru the air box directly effects mpg numbers.
