Ok so the Dakota has been running a little rich and a bit rough at idle. So i decided to do a tune up ( which by the way did resolve the idle issues)
However.
Well when i was taking the old plugs out i noticed, disturbingly, that i could take them out extremely easily with almost no force. One plug popped loose without a wrench, just turning the extension bar by hand. I found this quite disturbing!
i remember, looking back, the last time i changed the plugs i torqued them to 20ft lbs. ( the factory recommended specs).
The fact that they came out so easily was a bit alarming. So when i put the new plugs in, i torqued them to 22ft lbs.
Is this ok??
I have read that aluminum heads will strip out at 24ft lbs
Is this true??
Any speculation as to why the old plugs were so loose??
Thanks in advance.

 

How accurate is the wrench? I doubt it would strip at 24 ft lbs but then again, I never use one to install plugs. I know this sounds crazy, but when doing plugs, I always go by feel as I don't always trust a torque wrench. It's how I've done them my whole life. Now something like wheel bearings or ball joints or head bolts, yeah...torque wrench all the way.

Once you install the plug, if you happen to loosen them and retorque, the crush washer is already crushed so you have to go a little tighter.

 

I've ran into enough stripped out plugs in my life already I don't mind using a torque wrench but I do get mine certified every year also. New plugs are definitely a butt pucker to put in sometimes but yea teh crush washer definitely and give some false feels/readings, doesn't hurt to double triple check they're tight. I would think the plugs could handle well beyond 24ftlbs even in an aluminum head. I think an M12 bolt with fine thread would handle 50+ ftlbs into aluminum

 

Dad pulled out two 7/16-14 thread out of the cylinder head at 40 ft-lb last weekend (BBC inner valley head studs). Given the fine/small thread nature of a spark plug, 24 sounds about right IMO.

 

( I always go by feel )

I agree been doing it that way 40 years never had a problem even in aluminum heads.

 

I never use a torque wrench..... For tapered seat plugs, screw 'em in snug, and then turn 'em another 5 minutes. For the crush-washer fellers, in until they seat, then, another quarter turn. All done. Never had a problem with 'em coming loose.

 

so turn no more than five minutes, else they might get stripped right?

 

What kind of torque wrench? If it's a standard size, it probably has a 20lb minumum/220lb maximum, and it's not going to be accurate close to the minimum. You'll want to get an inch-pound torque wrench for low torque ratings, and 22 ft lbs is 264 inch lbs.

If it's one of the ones that has a long metal pointer, you may as well be free-handing it.

 

Possibly. Either that, or be impossible to remove when the time comes, without taking the threads in the head with 'em.

 

Yeah... just messin with you. I also put a bit of high temp antiseize on the threads. I know many will say it's not needed, but I don't trust a layer of electroplating to always work for tens of thousands of miles and heat cycles. Yes, it does change the torque level but I don't use a torque wrench to begin with. Never had an issue and they come out easy.