Does anyone have the procedure to replace the front yoke on a 1999?
Hey all, I just installed a replacement front diff on my 1999 and the knuckleheads at LKQ snapped off a bolt in the yoke. I didn't catch it before I installed it, so now I have to swap yokes from my old one to the installed one.
I tried to drill it and use an easy out, but that didn't go very well. It is truly seized in there.
I need to know what the torque specs on the yoke nut are and if my current tools can handle it.
Trouble is, I only have a 2000 FSM and haven't been able to find one for a 1999.
Any help is appreciated.
I tried to drill it and use an easy out, but that didn't go very well. It is truly seized in there.
I need to know what the torque specs on the yoke nut are and if my current tools can handle it.
Trouble is, I only have a 2000 FSM and haven't been able to find one for a 1999.
Any help is appreciated.
Hey all, I just installed a replacement front diff on my 1999 and the knuckleheads at LKQ snapped off a bolt in the yoke. I didn't catch it before I installed it, so now I have to swap yokes from my old one to the installed one.
I tried to drill it and use an easy out, but that didn't go very well. It is truly seized in there.
I need to know what the torque specs on the yoke nut are and if my current tools can handle it.
Trouble is, I only have a 2000 FSM and haven't been able to find one for a 1999.
Any help is appreciated.
I tried to drill it and use an easy out, but that didn't go very well. It is truly seized in there.
I need to know what the torque specs on the yoke nut are and if my current tools can handle it.
Trouble is, I only have a 2000 FSM and haven't been able to find one for a 1999.
Any help is appreciated.
Yeah, mine has the u-joint with bands style yoke and the FSM for the 2000 shows the flange style yoke and a 205mm ring gear.
I thought they made the change to the 205mm diff in 2001 but the manual shows it in 2000.
I thought they made the change to the 205mm diff in 2001 but the manual shows it in 2000.
Need a GOOD quality inch pound torque wrench......
Measure the amount of torque required to turn the front pinion. (tires off please, may wanna manually back the calipers off a bit as well.)
Swap the yoke.
Retorque the pinion bolt such that it requires a BIT more effort to turn the pinion than previously measured.
Should be good to go.
Measure the amount of torque required to turn the front pinion. (tires off please, may wanna manually back the calipers off a bit as well.)
Swap the yoke.
Retorque the pinion bolt such that it requires a BIT more effort to turn the pinion than previously measured.
Should be good to go.
Ok so I think I did this right. I measured the torque on both the old and new front axles and got 8-9 inch lbs. each. (axles disconnected) then I marked both yokes, nut, and end of the pinion shaft to line them back up.
I counted the number of visible threads on the pinion shaft, then buzzed the nuts off with my impact. After installing a new seal, I put the good yoke on my installed axle, and tapped it in with a soft blow hammer. Then I threaded the nut back on and tightened it up with a regular ratchet until I couldn't move it. It still had about 1/4 turn to go for my marks to line up so I got a breaker bar and a pipe wrench. The pipe wrench held the yoke steady while I reefed on the breaker bar.
I had about 1/4 inch left to go when I couldn't budge it any farther, so I grabbed my floor jack and put it under the handle of the breaker bar. I slowly raised the jack until my marks lined up and took a measurement which was 7 inch lbs. So I switched back to the jack and raised it a little, moving my mark on the nut about 1/8th past where it was before and then took another measurement- 12 inch lbs. I called it quits there.
There isn't any slop and the only sound I hear when I wiggle the pinion is from the backlash of the ring gear.
Tomorrow I get to fill it and put the crossmember and skid plate back on and test drive it. Hope it doesn't blow up on me!
I counted the number of visible threads on the pinion shaft, then buzzed the nuts off with my impact. After installing a new seal, I put the good yoke on my installed axle, and tapped it in with a soft blow hammer. Then I threaded the nut back on and tightened it up with a regular ratchet until I couldn't move it. It still had about 1/4 turn to go for my marks to line up so I got a breaker bar and a pipe wrench. The pipe wrench held the yoke steady while I reefed on the breaker bar.
I had about 1/4 inch left to go when I couldn't budge it any farther, so I grabbed my floor jack and put it under the handle of the breaker bar. I slowly raised the jack until my marks lined up and took a measurement which was 7 inch lbs. So I switched back to the jack and raised it a little, moving my mark on the nut about 1/8th past where it was before and then took another measurement- 12 inch lbs. I called it quits there.
There isn't any slop and the only sound I hear when I wiggle the pinion is from the backlash of the ring gear.
Tomorrow I get to fill it and put the crossmember and skid plate back on and test drive it. Hope it doesn't blow up on me!
Last edited by tonypilot7; Jan 22, 2022 at 10:58 PM.









