Buying a 2000 quad cab, what can I expect?
Forum junkie here, but first post on this forum. 
I am a big car guy, having owned three Fox Mustangs. I do all of my own work, so am not intimidated in any way by buying a car that may have some issues and need occasional work. Being a Mustang guy, I know how it is to drive a car that you love, yet one that needs occasional love.
I am getting ready to buy a white 2000 Dodge Dakota quad cab (4.7, auto, 4x4) from my neighbor. I have done some research on the them, and know that they have some common issues:
- brakes
- ball joints
- tranny
- timing chains at this mileage
- other odds and ends
I don't mind having to fix some of the stuff myself, but wonder what a new tranny costs for one of these. Can you find them for a decent price in the aftermarket? I have replaced a manual tranny on one of my Mustangs, but have not replaced an auto yet, nor have I worked on a 4x4. I know it would be a royal pain for a shade tree mechanic.
Anyone have any input on what to expect? Mileage is currently 125k, but most of that was put on in the first few years. It is used sparingly now. My neighbor is also a good friend, and was trying to sell his truck to his brother. He said he would not feel comfortable selling a car with any known issues to a family member, so I assume that it is in good shape mechanically. He is one of those guys that has all of the work done at the recommended intervals by a mechanic, so I might get lucky and be able to check out the records. I know that he ha said that he has not had any tranny problems. I will be giving it the once over this weekend.
I'd love to hear any input from current owners of that generations and the good/bad.

I am a big car guy, having owned three Fox Mustangs. I do all of my own work, so am not intimidated in any way by buying a car that may have some issues and need occasional work. Being a Mustang guy, I know how it is to drive a car that you love, yet one that needs occasional love.
I am getting ready to buy a white 2000 Dodge Dakota quad cab (4.7, auto, 4x4) from my neighbor. I have done some research on the them, and know that they have some common issues:
- brakes
- ball joints
- tranny
- timing chains at this mileage
- other odds and ends
I don't mind having to fix some of the stuff myself, but wonder what a new tranny costs for one of these. Can you find them for a decent price in the aftermarket? I have replaced a manual tranny on one of my Mustangs, but have not replaced an auto yet, nor have I worked on a 4x4. I know it would be a royal pain for a shade tree mechanic.
Anyone have any input on what to expect? Mileage is currently 125k, but most of that was put on in the first few years. It is used sparingly now. My neighbor is also a good friend, and was trying to sell his truck to his brother. He said he would not feel comfortable selling a car with any known issues to a family member, so I assume that it is in good shape mechanically. He is one of those guys that has all of the work done at the recommended intervals by a mechanic, so I might get lucky and be able to check out the records. I know that he ha said that he has not had any tranny problems. I will be giving it the once over this weekend.
I'd love to hear any input from current owners of that generations and the good/bad.
Brakes are a problem for OEM stuff, get a good set of rotors and pads and you should be fine. Ball joints - if they've been replaced under recall they should be good. Timing chain, well, that's a given for any vehicle. The tranny, if serviced regularly and not abused, should last just fine. If you find it hunting for a gear, lock it into the lower gear (shift into 2, turn OD off, whatever). Put an extra tranny oil cooler in for added peace of mind. The problems are generally caused by overheating iirc. The electronic shift transfer case will undoubtedly fail at some point. Not guaranteed, but probable. It's a relatively easy fix, replace the control module. They're about 250-300 from Napa I think, and you could probably get one from a J/Y too.
Great, thanks for the info.
I am hoping that the one I am buying has a trans cooler, but I will probably take your word for it and upgrade to a larger heat exchanger. I believe those are relatively inexpensive. And, if not, it's still a good investment if it helps the tranny last longer.
I am hoping that the one I am buying has a trans cooler, but I will probably take your word for it and upgrade to a larger heat exchanger. I believe those are relatively inexpensive. And, if not, it's still a good investment if it helps the tranny last longer.
ORIGINAL: horatio102
Brakes are a problem for OEM stuff, get a good set of rotors and pads and you should be fine. Ball joints - if they've been replaced under recall they should be good. Timing chain, well, that's a given for any vehicle. The tranny, if serviced regularly and not abused, should last just fine. If you find it hunting for a gear, lock it into the lower gear (shift into 2, turn OD off, whatever). Put an extra tranny oil cooler in for added peace of mind. The problems are generally caused by overheating iirc. The electronic shift transfer case will undoubtedly fail at some point. Not guaranteed, but probable. It's a relatively easy fix, replace the control module. They're about 250-300 from Napa I think, and you could probably get one from a J/Y too.
Brakes are a problem for OEM stuff, get a good set of rotors and pads and you should be fine. Ball joints - if they've been replaced under recall they should be good. Timing chain, well, that's a given for any vehicle. The tranny, if serviced regularly and not abused, should last just fine. If you find it hunting for a gear, lock it into the lower gear (shift into 2, turn OD off, whatever). Put an extra tranny oil cooler in for added peace of mind. The problems are generally caused by overheating iirc. The electronic shift transfer case will undoubtedly fail at some point. Not guaranteed, but probable. It's a relatively easy fix, replace the control module. They're about 250-300 from Napa I think, and you could probably get one from a J/Y too.
Please explain further what you mean by:
"If you find it hunting for a gear, lock it into the lower gear (shift into 2, turn OD off, whatever)"
Thanks in advance
Matt
Everything that horatio102 said is pretty much on the button. The only thing that is wrong is about the electronic shift transfer case. The 2000 model year has the shift control on the floor and is manual so you won't have to worry about that. As far as having a tranny cooler, if you have the tow package you have a tranny cooler. This is my second 2000 Dakota Quad Cab I've had and they are identical to yours (even color). The only thing that may be a major difference is I have the full time transfer case so I am never out of 4-wheel drive.
I know when I was looking at Dakotas in the past the floor shift was standard and the electronic one was an extra option, don't know if it was an option in 00 though. The floor mount ones with a real lever are the way to go, imho, but I bought mine used so I didn't get a choice.
Matt - If I'm driving along in D with the overdrive on, and I'm heading up a long grade, sometimes the tranny will shift in and out of OD because the gearing in OD just isn't quite enough to pull the hill but if you're not into the throttle enough it'll shift back into OD after it gets back up to speed, and the cycle repeats. This happens more with underpowered vehicles, such as my parents' old 89 Caravan with the 3.0 V6. Anyway, that shifting back and forth puts a bit of stress on the tranny and it also generates more heat, so it's best to hit the OD override button until you crest the hill. Or if you've already got OD locked out and it's bumping between 3rd and 2nd, shift it manually into 2nd.
If you have a trailer and tow your vette around I'd recommend locking out OD whenever you're approaching a hill. The car I tow most frequently is a 2002 WRX wagon with a full (overboard) roll cage that weighs a lot closer to 4000 lbs though, and with the 5.9 it'll maintain freeway speeds on all but the steepest hills.
Matt - If I'm driving along in D with the overdrive on, and I'm heading up a long grade, sometimes the tranny will shift in and out of OD because the gearing in OD just isn't quite enough to pull the hill but if you're not into the throttle enough it'll shift back into OD after it gets back up to speed, and the cycle repeats. This happens more with underpowered vehicles, such as my parents' old 89 Caravan with the 3.0 V6. Anyway, that shifting back and forth puts a bit of stress on the tranny and it also generates more heat, so it's best to hit the OD override button until you crest the hill. Or if you've already got OD locked out and it's bumping between 3rd and 2nd, shift it manually into 2nd.
If you have a trailer and tow your vette around I'd recommend locking out OD whenever you're approaching a hill. The car I tow most frequently is a 2002 WRX wagon with a full (overboard) roll cage that weighs a lot closer to 4000 lbs though, and with the 5.9 it'll maintain freeway speeds on all but the steepest hills.
I own a 2000 Dak. Quad 4x4. I bought mine w/ 30k on it and drove hiway miles at normal operating temp. and normal driving. Somewhere around 88k the front differential went on me. Bought a used one with 53k on it and paid $500.00. Picked the truck up that night from the garage. Drove it to work the following morning and then the engine blew......88k! Could not for the longest time find a used motor. I finally bought a reman. for $2400. and I now have 4k on it. I bought this truck over a Toyota 4 dr. because I needed more room in the back (for the kids). I was never a Dodge person and with all that has happened, I can't wait to get rid of this toilet. Did I mention I had to change out both left and right front wheel bearings? Had the recalls done which were the ball joints and something with the seatbelts. Maybe it is a "good" truck and it could of happened to Any truck but one thing after another??? Anyway, good luck
sb
sb
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What motor, and what was the service history? It's unusual to blow out a front differential, how did that happen? I don't know about the 2.5, 3.7, and 4.7, but the 3.9, 5.2, and 5.9 are good stout motors that if cared for properly will usually run ~200k before needing major work.
The Dak. is a 2000 with a 4.7 and I purchased it used with 30k on it. I put 50k on it, all hiway at operating temp. and I did not beat on this vehicle. One morning on the hiway the truck felt as if I was driving on marbles. I just could not stay in the lanes. Smoke and fluid blew out of the vent from the differential. So, I' guessing maybe the previous owner beat on this truck or whatever. After it was repaired the motor went...blew a rod. All I know is that this truck gave me nothing but ulcers! I'll tel ya, it took me a long time to find a used 4.7 (at the time, that was the route I was going). For the kind of $ they wanted for a used motor with alot of miles, I was better off buying a reman. with a warranty for the same $ these knuckleheads wanted!! Motor and labor came out around $28-2900. Like I said earlier......this could of happened to any other make of truck. I know there are alot of Dodge owners out on this forum who know more (than me) about these trucks. I'm not a Dodge person, but I thought I would post a note of my experience with my Dakota. Thnx.!


