cam and crank sensors?
#1
cam and crank sensors?
Hello,
I have a 2000 Dakota, 4.7L, 4x4, with 44,000 miles. The check engine light has been going on and off intermittently, and I get two codes, P0340 “no camshaft signal detected during engine cranking”, and P1391 “intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor”.
I’ve noticed no change in engine performance, and the other day the engine would crank freely, but would not start. When I got all set up to test the two sensors a day later the engine started just fine. I assume there is no way to test either of these sensors if the engine does indeed starts and runs. My thinking is to just replace the camshaft position sensor first, then replace the crankshaft sensor second if the first option does not fix the problem.
So, my questions are:
1.Does my replacement strategy seem sound?
2. Is there a way to test both of these sensors if the engine starts and runs?
3. How does one reset the codes once the repairs are complete?
Also, the Haynes manual is worth about half of what it cost, at least for 2000 models.
Thanks in advanced for any answers,
Ron
I also found this on the web:
Service Bulletin Number: 082200
Bulletin Sequence Number: 141
Date of Bulletin: 0006
NHTSA Item Number: SB614159
Make: DODGE TRUCK Model: DAKOTA Year: 2000 Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Summary: SOME CUSTOMERS MAY NOTICE A LOWER THAN EXPECTED ENGINE PERFORMANCE DUE TO A POSSIBLE LOSS OR INTERMITTENT LOSS OF THE CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR (CMP) SIGNAL. THE LOSS OF THE CMP SIGNAL MAY BE THE RESULT OF THE CMP PHYSICALLY CONTACTING THE TONE WHEEL. *TT
I have a 2000 Dakota, 4.7L, 4x4, with 44,000 miles. The check engine light has been going on and off intermittently, and I get two codes, P0340 “no camshaft signal detected during engine cranking”, and P1391 “intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor”.
I’ve noticed no change in engine performance, and the other day the engine would crank freely, but would not start. When I got all set up to test the two sensors a day later the engine started just fine. I assume there is no way to test either of these sensors if the engine does indeed starts and runs. My thinking is to just replace the camshaft position sensor first, then replace the crankshaft sensor second if the first option does not fix the problem.
So, my questions are:
1.Does my replacement strategy seem sound?
2. Is there a way to test both of these sensors if the engine starts and runs?
3. How does one reset the codes once the repairs are complete?
Also, the Haynes manual is worth about half of what it cost, at least for 2000 models.
Thanks in advanced for any answers,
Ron
I also found this on the web:
Service Bulletin Number: 082200
Bulletin Sequence Number: 141
Date of Bulletin: 0006
NHTSA Item Number: SB614159
Make: DODGE TRUCK Model: DAKOTA Year: 2000 Component: ELECTRICAL SYSTEM Summary: SOME CUSTOMERS MAY NOTICE A LOWER THAN EXPECTED ENGINE PERFORMANCE DUE TO A POSSIBLE LOSS OR INTERMITTENT LOSS OF THE CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR (CMP) SIGNAL. THE LOSS OF THE CMP SIGNAL MAY BE THE RESULT OF THE CMP PHYSICALLY CONTACTING THE TONE WHEEL. *TT
#2
#3
RE: cam and crank sensors?
you can do an inductive pick-up test on both the crank and cam sensor......all you have to do is have a DVOM w/ an attachment for inductive pick-up.......cause the sensors stated induce an ac voltage.....if they do make the ac voltage...its good.....if not its bad....you may also want to check the connectors/connection if they are corroded.........plus if your cam sensor died....the truck should not run..(this is where the ignition sys takes the signal to fire the plugs/same on the crank sensor)(i.e. crank no start)
#4
RE: cam and crank sensors?
After replacing the timing chain in my 98 v6, i got the P1391 “intermittent loss of either camshaft or crankshaft position sensor”, and the engine was running rougher than expected, and really lacked torque on the bottom end. Since I also replaced the cap and rotor, I guessed that I possibly did not install the cam position sensor under the dist cap correctly, or nicked one of the wires, etc... rather then the sensor going bad. After checking under the cap it seemed fine. I did some research and decided to check the fuel injector timing (controlled by the cam position sensor) and see how close it was to zero. 1st you have to take apart the connector to the cam pos and backprobe the pins with a voltage meter while spining the crankshaft with a wrench. I can't remember for sure, but you want to line up the v6 mark (or v8) with the DTC mark and check for the voltage to switch from 0 to 5 or 5 to 0. When the v6/v8 mark is lined up, the cam timing should be right at the 0/5 switch point. If not, loosten the dist bolt and rotate the dist until the voltage changes, and this is the zero timing condition. After that, the code stayed away after being cleared, and the engine ran smoother and had more power on the bottom end.
Not sure why the timing was soo far off except for the difference in the old and new timing chain.
Not sure why the timing was soo far off except for the difference in the old and new timing chain.