Getting ready to replace my front pads and rotors this weekend and looking for any tips or advice... I'm not doing it alone and would like to have some prior knowledge so as not to feel like an ****.

ANy recommendations as to parts (better, best) what brands I should be buying and what I should watch out for during the process would be helpful, also, some knowledge on ceramic pads... vs. regular... whats the deal? is there a preference for brands for replacing the brakes... ?

How long should this process take for an amateur? Yes, I am a girl and my boyfriend is helping. He has done this before but not to a dodge pick-up- Im sure he will do his own research, but I'd like to learn something too as a result so perhaps next time I can go at it alone.

Thanks for the help in advance!

 

Well I bought NAPA ceramic pads and I've got to say they're the dirtiest ones I've ever had. The guy said "they don't dust at all", but in turn what he meant was that you can see the dust accumulating within hours of washing your wheels.

Aside from that though, don't forget to bed the brakes in, and make sure when you compress the pistons that you don't damage them. Mine both started sticking after I replaced my pads, and I think it might have been my compressing method that burred the side of the piston. I'm not sure though.

There's a metal spring on the front of the caliper, it's a PITA to put back in, you'll just have to strong-arm it. Use needle nose vise grips or a big screwdriver or something. Other than that it's pretty straightforward.

How long should it take? 30 minutes/side or so unless you've got a lift and air tools. If that's the case, less. I swapped out an entire caliper and bled the brakes in the parking lot at Schuck's in 45 minutes flat, and that was 2 hours into a trip so the brakes were nice and hot to start. It helped that I still had the appropriate tools (allen socket, ratchet, etc.) already in the car, but they're common enough that you can pick them up at any parts store.

 

I don't remember what type of pads i installed but they were the most expensive pads they had at orieley. and yes they get my wheels just as dirty as anything else i've had on there.

 

great, thanks - this was helpful and Im sure I will be more prepared as a result. Question, when Im looking online at parts and what not, i am not seeing anything for "rotors" I see brade pads front and rear, but no front and rear rotors. I know this may be the stupidest question ever, but, Im learning here!

 

If you get Brembo OE replacement rotors you'll need part # 27380 for the front and 27381 for the rear, according to their catalog.

On summitracing.com if you look for Power Slot part numbers PSR-8741PSL, PSR-8741PSR, PSR-8737PSL, and PSR-8737PSR that'll give you a set of slotted performance rotors, the bad news is that they're about $100 each.

But the question is, why are you replacing your rotors after only 3 years? Are the OEM ones worn to a point where you can't get them turned?

 

The dealer recommended that I replace my rotors and brake pads as the pads were worn to nothing and the rotors are rusted through.
Is this not common? I have 32,900 on the truck and bought it new. I do alot of short trips - city driving- so I assumed that I use the brakes more often. I probably travel on average 12-24 m a day at the most and have weekend trips that are at about 300m 1-2x a month. I dont tow anything and usually its just me driving (so theres not excessive weight).
WIll my local parts store have these parts or do I need to order these special?

 

And the dealer brake job would earn them what, $800-1200? That's about what it ran me in my 86 Ram back at Schwab before I knew what I was doing.

What do you mean rusted through? It's normal for there to be rust on OEM rotors along the vent vanes.

What I'd do is talk to an independant mechanic that you feel is somewhat trustworthy, and see if they'll look to see for sure that you need new ones. If not based on visual inspection, arrange to bring them in while you're changing the pads and have them turned if it can be done within spec.

My rotors had ~55k on them, my QC has the big engine, 4wd, and I hammer on the brakes every now and then especially with the ~6000 lbs I tow. I don't know how much your truck weighs, but mine tips the scales at close to 5000 lbs. I typically put 30 miles or more on it just about every day, and once or twice a month I'll put 2-500 miles on it in a day.

33k miles for rotors to be shot is rediculous unless you're doing track days and road racing. Sounds like the dealer is trying to drum up business, or they're one of those pencil dicks who has never actually worked on a car in their life and they don't know what they're talking about. I had over 60k miles on my 2001 Impreza on the stock rotors and pads with PLENTY of life left, and I drove the **** out of that thing. I've got ~30k on my Ram on the new brakes and the rotors probably need to be turned, but there's a **** ton of life left in them, and that thing does get beat. It was my tow rig, but now it's pretty much my gravel pit beast. I did replace the shoes though. Those were shot.

 

I did my first set at 50K and they were worn out. I Pickedup rotors at autozone for $25 each, and their best pads, Pads were/are not worth it and I have been unhappy with them.

I was quoted $110 for a set of porterfields for the front and wish I had bought them.

 

i've got a 2000 dakota and i was planning on replacing the rotors. does anyone know what size allen wrench is needed to get the calipers off? i swear i tried all my SAE and Metric sizes and nothing fits. i think i'm going nuts.

 

it wouldn't tell me in the haynes manual, but make a quick stop buy the local store and have them look it up. i remember i ran into the same problem.