What kind of suspension? Stock? Modified? Tires arent the only thing that creates traction. Look for street/drag shocks for the rear so the weight transfer will be more on the rear, but it will sacrifice handling around corners doing this. Also what psi are you running? Start experimenting with psi by a few psi (dont get crazy though).



BTW virused, who's bike you wrench on?

 

Hi all. Newbie currently looking at a 98 R/T so I thought I'd look around. Was looking for whether the truck had a 3.55 or the 3.92. Also truck has a 'ticking' sound in the rear end. Has new motor because owner put nitrous on stock motor with stock MAP and destroyed it. Imagine that.

To the OP. You really need a tuner to look at it. At the least get a broadband hooked up and connect a laptop to it. If you're running 11 to 1 or 10 to 1 I'd look at my plugs. They almost have to need changing. That'll help a week if it's that rich.

Program it to 13 to 1 if you can or get a tune to gradually increase it to 14 to 1 or the best pulls/etc. You may need other mods. A tuner should be able to work with a cold air intake and all the other less expensive goodies that aren't hard.

As far as launching, well I don't run my two trucks hard so my experience is limited to high hp TTs mostly. I have read the truck launches better and with the least tire spin at 1500. That's what I read and I have zero experience with the truck. I can't run regular tires on the high output cars but I do well with a 67 Chevelle SS with a 502/502 thru a Richmod 5sp and a very low rear end and just fat radials. I won't even run others withoug DRs at least or biased slicks. That's a long way to say you probably will do fine with fatter tires or fatter tires in say a Nitto DOT DR.

I think I'd work on as many small mods like headers, manifold, cam, cold air, throttle body, and injectors then tune it properly. That way you only do one tune until you have to have more and start adding more goodies. So tune and tires would be my suggestion.

Can I do better with a 3.55 instead of a 3.92 for mileage or does it really help that much. Sounds like these trucks suck on gas (my 8000lb dually gets almost 18) and I don't want to lose the locker for 1-2 mpg. Finally has anyone out there got a Gear Vendor for the truck they want to sell. And how much did the GV do for mileage? Did it give you effectively another 30-50 hp/tq?

Tx. Looks like a kool forum.

 

First off, yes it comes w/ a 3:92.

Secondly, way to dig up a 2.5 yr old thread lol. Im pretty sure by now he has everything figured out.

And don't plan on buying and r/t for gas milage. If you are worried about it, don't buy it. I think most get between 12-15 mpg. And you want the 3:92s. I wish I had them. 3:55 is just a little too low of a gear for hills and what not and doesn't accelerate as fast as 3:92s.

 

I want to officially state I categorically hate it when it does that.

 

try more like 9-11 mpg realisticly.

 

this post is so old, it was before user knew what he was talking about.

 

dang 9-11 is lower than i thought.

haha and yeah its funny seeing user get schooled in knowing what he is talking about. But people learn and you can tell over the last 2 and a half years user has come around to know a decent amount when it comes to these trucks.

 

Wow this was like my first post when i bought my R/T... hahahahaah

nice find... -_-

 

Sorry. did a google and your thread popped up. Usually they're pretty current but I'm usually in a zone somewhere or worse and not paying attn.

Glad to see you got it squared away. I decided not to purchase the truck but now I regret it. Went for $4550.

 

yeah i was reading this and was like, wtf i thought user knew EVERYTHING and i was getting let down lol