Understood about the 4wd thing today, it was fairly iced over and i see that you can shift from 4 to 2 wd drive during driving (unless its like a crazy speed). I used 4 wheel to get going and 2 wheel to drive, pretty simple. Also, anyone have any info on the ball joint thing? its the lower one...

 

The ball joints have a tendency to fail. Replacing them isn't too complicated, but it is labor intensive. I would recommend having a profesional do it if you are not too familiar with the workings of your suspension.

 

I know how the suspension works, however this is my first 4x4 that i have owned. i have done other intensive suspension work, i have never messed with balljoints before, I understand the labor and im willing to give the time. I know the lower ones are pressed into the A arm, now my question is : If you do not own a press, how do you get the ball joint out? Sorry if i sound a little pushy, but saying to see a professional ( i am some what one) doesnt solve my problem. I have been quoted over 560 - 600 dollers for a ball joint when the cost 70-80 dollers. I just dont have the funds to push the job on someone else. So, again how do you get the pressed in ball joints out of the A arm if you do not own a press?

 

when I did my ball joints I had to buy a socket for the top ones and for the bottom ones I just stuck my jack under the control arm and put a bit of pressure on it. then I took a mini sledge hammer and smackedtheBJout. it took alot, but it finnally came out. and the top ones just thread out. make sure you lube them really good before you attemt to take them out.

when I did the upper ball joints in the 88 I bent the whole upper control arm trying to get them off[:@]

 

If your going in to replace a ball joint, do all of them. When you do replace them, do itwith some Moog greasable ones that will be stronger, greasable, and last you alot longer then OEM replacments. I just did all 4 of mine, about 50 a ball joint for parts and 160 to press out the old ball joints and press in new ones. That 160 also included burning out the old upper bushings and pressing in new poly bushing for the uppers and lowers. Just to press out and in some ball joints should be cheaper then 160.

I myself did a few different things while in there with everything apart, new poly bushings, ball joints, shocks, and I also coated all the parts with herculiner to make sure they never rust. I think all parts costs me around 350 and 160 in labor for the pressing of stuff. so around 500 for a pretty much brandnew front end. ohhh and an alignment after it was all said and done.

1 tip, take off the sway bar before jacking vehicle up.

 

Lol, i could see the sway bar being a problem. Thanks alot guys, this does help out alot, the shop i had quoted ( i went there for tires and got a lecture..) for this job said about 500 for one side. Ha! i know ball joints are a pain but a few hours and couple friends and its all good. I just got the truck last week, i love it although it was running a little rough so i did a tune up and it runs a million times better. Actually, i seen an attachment for an impact gun that you could use as a wedging devise. I see if that does any damage..i just hope it starts warming up in IA

 

I bought one of those airtool attachments, still ended going back to the hand picklefork and a small sledge to get the lowers off. I did mine in a week very slowly by myself, so I am guessing with a few friends you could do it in no time. Just be sure to bring the most needed tool.......beer

 

Indeed, I going to "document" it and hopefully the mod's will place it as a sticky for future postees. I have noticed this and the 4x4 question comming up alot, so ill take fun little pics.

 

Man of the auto parts stores that carry the ball joints will let you "rent" a ball joint press right from them. Basically, its a super heavy duty clamp (it weighs like 10 pounds). Most of them come with the right size collar to press out the old ball joints and help press in the new ones. They basically asked for the cost of the tool (which was $100), and then when you return it, they give you the money back (autozone). You only have to do this for the lower ball joints. I was able to fix mine without removing the control arms from the vehicle. Remember, be extremely carefull when removing the lowers, as there is a TON of pressure on the lower control arm from the torsion bar, and if you don't place a dish jack (or some other very safe jack) underneath the lower control arm, it will come smashing down once separated from the hub assembly. You dont want any part of your body (arms or legs) underneath the lower control arm when your separating the ball joint from the hub.
But I was able to remove and reinstall mine in about 2 days (as I was learning as I was going along). If I remember correctly, you must press them out through the bottom of the control arme to remove them, and press them in from underneath the control arm to install them.