I just ordered the Pioneer DEH-2100UB headunit and adapters from crutchfield.

I've already swapped 2 OEM units that both change from FM to AM or change stations when I hit bumps or turn, so i'm finally going aftermarket.

1. Supposedly, the infinity amp in the kick panel accepts line level inputs, so that the aftermarket unit will still work. Confirm?

2. I want to install my tiny (6"x6"x2") visonik 150 watt RMS subwoofer amplifier and 10" jensen XS subwoofer. All I have is a regular cab box...Doesn't fit in the floor behind the seats.

Do I have to run the amp ground to the same ground as the infinity amp (radio H/U) or will grounding to the rear seat brackets be sufficient to prevent a ground loop fault?

The MTX thunderforms for a pair of 10's is entirely too huge and expensive.

Just using MDF and some spare marine carpet (and imagination?), where in hades would the best spot be to put a sub without a potential theif seeing it?

I thought about a false-floor in the back seat...wont work (floor isn't level and front seat slider brackets would be close).

I thought about a component-style enclosure in the front footwell..wont work (can't carve wood around AC ducting)

I thought about under the passenger seat...won't work (too deep..sub is 4.5" tall)

I thought about a formed enclosure around the back of the console....but the center seat has the most legroom and the console wouldn't be able to easily flip up.

I thought about using my existing truck box and just modifying it to stay upright against my seat...would work, but look hokey and be obvious to lookie-loo's.

If I had the time and ability...could a side or down firing sub be placed under the center seat/console? I know i'd have to unbolt and move the seats around to access that area. Is there a way to remove/access the area below the console without removing the seats?

 

You may want to build or buy a sub box http://www.supercrewsound.com/commer...g.jsp?catId=61

 

I'm not sure whether you are willing to sacrifice your middle seat up front, but you may want to give this a try. You could definitely modify his plans a bit for just the sub box.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...nsole-diy.html

As far as grounding your amp, I'm no expert on it but I can only imagine that as long as the amp is grounded it doesn't matter where you put the ground. I can't think that it would have to be grounded at the same spot as your amp.

 

those boxes are way too d@mn expensive for my teeny tiny college budget. I know about the front console boxes, but I usually have somebody sitting in the front center if there's 3 people, or if my parents and I use my truck to go somewhere. And I'd like to keep my tool tay, since I could never reproduce the cup holders.

I came up with something. A ~.5 cubic foot "sealed" box, but in leu of a terminal cup, drill a half-inch hole and run the speaker wire through it. WinISD "claims" that a .5 cubic foot box tuned to 20 hz would use a .30" hole that's 0.75" long. So count for the wire, and a half-inch hole should do the job.

Won't look as hidden as a full false floor, but black marine carpet or similar shouldn't make things too bad. The sub and wire hole will be facing down, so not like there will be anything to see but the plain black box.

16" x 12" x 8" outside dimensions.

 

I found the factory spare grommet that I'm going to pass my power lead through from the battery, it's in the driver's quarter panel right above the computer.

I took measurements for the box as well. 18 long, 12 wide, the back side is 9" tall, the front is 6" tall, comes up at a 45 degree angle, then matches the 9" height.

 

I found the wiring harness for the amp (it was all previously instaalled in our old dually) but have yet to find the amp itself....

Cell phone pictures of Mock-up

1. Measuring the raised portion of floorboard to go around and over
2. The front length is 18, the back is 12", but it isn't exactly square
3. A mock-up of almost exact positioning. The 2 metal rulers define front and back panels, Left goes along driveshaft hump, a 1" riser come up where the wooden ruler is, then the box continues over the ridge over to the end of the long metal ruler
4. The important ruler has the shine...the back seat is 9" high to the top, the ridge is 6" long, and the front seat makes contact at 8".

 

Radio comes monday. Couldn't find my amp so i bought a new one off ebay for $35 and next-day shipping (ship friday, arrive monday)

Gonna put all the wiring in tomorrow, pick up my grille, maybe see if Home Depot has a half sheet of 3/4" MDF or plywood...

 

It Fits....BARELY. If my dad has to drive my truck, it has to come out or move, because I measured where it would fit, and it fits where i measured. I put the power and ground cables in this morning, Dad doesn't get home till 9 tonight so i might be able to get all this put in tonight.

Didn't come out too bad so far considering i cut everything at least 1/8" larger than specified. Those 22.5° cuts were actualy easy...Since the table saw is all skewed up, i just started wide until It took off the right amount. Took extra time, but it came out how it was supposed to. The side panels weren't so easy..i had to re-do one of them because i took off 1/8" too much of the angle.

I'm going to get the whole thing built and assembled, then go back with the Jig saw and maybe table saw to notch out for the hump in the corner.

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fully caulked, sealed, and ready to go minus the speaker wire and carpet.

Using the wire hole as the port seems like it will work well..might even be too big. Moving the cone by hand, I can definately feel the airflow through the hole.

Basically, just gotta put the amp on the fiberboard and velcro on monday and everything else is chocolate cake.

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So the rear windows aren't as tinted as I thought they are...Minus carpet it's almost obviouis, you just can't tell what's hiding in there. Maybe with carpet it'll hide better.