Very Odd rear end noise while making Left Turns.....
I have an open diff and am considering an LSD unit from the junkyard in the future. Guys, is there any way to tell if the clutches or the whole unit is good or bad without load? Of course, aside from pulling off the cover and checking for metal chunks. Also, my 03' has rear discs. I was wondering if that makes any difference if I was to swap. I doubt it, but just checking to be safe.
My build sheet...
Equipment Listing
VIN ############
Vehicle Description 2003 DODGE DAKOTA P/U QUAD CAB-SLT 4X2
Light Group
Monotone Paint
4 Wheel Disc Rr Anti-Lock Brakes
2nd Row 60/40 Bench Folding Seat
Next Generation Front Air Bags**
Front Seat Area Carpet
Passenger Assist Handle
Driver Assist Handle
All 5-Speed Automatic Transmissions
3.55 Rear Axle Ratio
Tinted Glass Windows
Tinted Windshield Glass
Front Door Tinted Glass
Deep Tint Sunscreen Glass
Rear Fixed Window
Driver Side Sun Visor
Passenger Side Sun Visor w/Mirror
Air Conditioning
Route 56 - NS, Hapeville, GA
Instrument Cluster w/Tach
120 MPH Primary Speedometer
Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers
Dual Note Electric Horns
STANDARD EQUIPMENT
1 09/17/14
12V Power Outlet Mounted in IP
BLACK - Badge - Dakota SLT
BLACK - BADGE - DODGE, TAILGATE
Halogen Headlamps
CHMSL Lamp
Bright Front Bumper
Bright Rear Bumper
Front License Plate Bracket
Bright Grille
Black Windshield Moldings
Gray Fascias
EVAP Control System
24 Gallon Fuel Tank
Bright Silver Metallic Clear Coat
4 Speakers
Fixed Long Mast Antenna
Power Rack and Pinion Steering
Heavy Duty Suspension
Front Heavy Duty Shock Absorbers
Rear Heavy Duty Shock Absorbers
Front Stabilizer Bar
Full Size Spare Tire
Tire Carrier Winch
Steel Spare Wheel
Pickup Box
Brake/Park Interlock
Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications
GVW Rating - 6010#
U.S. Dealer Retail
2 09/17/14
Zone 66-Orlando
AN-Vehicle Family
Vehicle Order Tracking
U.S. Specifications Label
Georgia Ship to State Code
Georgia Sold to State Code
Cloth 40/20/40 Split Bench Seat
Dark Slate Gray
Heavy Duty Service Group
Trailer Tow Group
Deluxe Convenience Group
Power Overhead Convenience Group
Power Convenience Group
SLT Plus Decor Group
Mutually Exclusive Package
136 Amp Alternator
750 Amp Maintenance Free Battery
40/20/40 Split Bench Seat
Cloth Door Trim Panel w/Map Pocket
Front Floor Mats
Overhead Console
5-Spd Automatic 545RFE Transmission
Lock-Up Torque Converter
Corporate 9.25 LD Rear Axle
4.7L V8 MPI Engine
Rear View Auto Dim Mirror
Power Heated Mirrors, Fold-Away
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT
3 09/17/14
All Vehicles W/Power Mirrors
Keyless Entry
Power Locks
Power Windows, Driver One-Touch
Power 6-Way Driver Seat
EXTERIOR COMPONENT COLOR
Glove Box Lamp
Map/Dome Reading Lamps
Fog Lamps
Cargo Lamp
50 State Emissions
Power Steering Cooler
Speed Control
Heavy Duty Engine Cooling
Next Generation Engine Controller
Bright Silver Metallic Clear Coat
All Radio Equipped Vehicles
AM/FM Compact Disc Radio w/Chgr Ctrl
Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel
Rear Stabilizer Bar
Tilt Steering Column
P255/65R16 OWL All Season Tires
Goodyear Brand Tires
16X8.0 Cast Aluminum Wheels
Class IV Receiver Hitch
7 Pin Wiring Harness
7 to 4 Pin Wiring Adaptor
Universal Garage Door Opener
Without Billable Fuel
4 09/17/14
Spring - Left Front
Spring - Left Rear
Spring - Right Front
Spring - Right Rear
Customer Preferred Package 2TH
Customer Preferred Package 26H
Customer Preferred Discount
BusinessLink Inventory
5 09/17/14
Last edited by Dodgevity; Dec 30, 2014 at 09:05 PM.
Sure thing. The video is of a 9.25" rebuild, but as far as I know it is very similar to our 8.25".
The adjusting nut/device is referenced starting at around the 8'40" mark to around the 12' 15" mark of the video.
The adjusting nut/device is referenced starting at around the 8'40" mark to around the 12' 15" mark of the video.
Last edited by Katmandu; Dec 30, 2014 at 11:09 PM.
After some more research, it appears there are differences (besides size) between the 8.25" and 9.25" rear ends.
Do the clutch packs come out of the carrier the same way in both OR are they different here ?
You can download a factory service manual. Use the '00 version as it will be the closest in regards to wiring and the engine:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-download.html
It has the entire rebuild procedure, a list of the tools required, torque values, etc.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-download.html
It has the entire rebuild procedure, a list of the tools required, torque values, etc.
IIRC, it is not necessary to remove the carrier in order to replace the clutch packs. They actually come out pretty easily once you pull out the cross pin (which needs to be done to get the axles out, anyway) and the spider gears. Everything pretty much falls out at that point. The hard part is getting them back in, since the spiders won't go back in without compressing the clutch packs. That's where the special tools come in.
If you do replace your carrier, check the backlash first, then set it to the same measurement with the new carrier. If you have the adjuster tool, it's actually very easy, especially compared to axles that adjust with shims.
BTW, what I would do (and have done in the past) is replace the whole carrier with an aftermarket unit that doesn't use clutches (Auburn, Detroit, etc.).
If you do replace your carrier, check the backlash first, then set it to the same measurement with the new carrier. If you have the adjuster tool, it's actually very easy, especially compared to axles that adjust with shims.
BTW, what I would do (and have done in the past) is replace the whole carrier with an aftermarket unit that doesn't use clutches (Auburn, Detroit, etc.).
IIRC, it is not necessary to remove the carrier in order to replace the clutch packs. They actually come out pretty easily once you pull out the cross pin (which needs to be done to get the axles out, anyway) and the spider gears. Everything pretty much falls out at that point. The hard part is getting them back in, since the spiders won't go back in without compressing the clutch packs. That's where the special tools come in.
If you do replace your carrier, check the backlash first, then set it to the same measurement with the new carrier. If you have the adjuster tool, it's actually very easy, especially compared to axles that adjust with shims.
BTW, what I would do (and have done in the past) is replace the whole carrier with an aftermarket unit that doesn't use clutches (Auburn, Detroit, etc.).
If you do replace your carrier, check the backlash first, then set it to the same measurement with the new carrier. If you have the adjuster tool, it's actually very easy, especially compared to axles that adjust with shims.
BTW, what I would do (and have done in the past) is replace the whole carrier with an aftermarket unit that doesn't use clutches (Auburn, Detroit, etc.).
If you do replace your carrier, check the backlash first, then set it to the same measurement with the new carrier. If you have the adjuster tool, it's actually very easy, especially compared to axles that adjust with shims.
BTW, what I would do (and have done in the past) is replace the whole carrier with an aftermarket unit that doesn't use clutches (Auburn, Detroit, etc.).
BTW, what I would do (and have done in the past) is replace the whole carrier with an aftermarket unit that doesn't use clutches (Auburn, Detroit, etc.).
When I find the procedure, it'll help me decide how deep I want to go with this.
Still working on finding the .pdf for the task.









