Front to rear brake line
#1
Front to rear brake line
Hello, Quick question... I have a 2001 Dak Quad cab and have to replace the front to rear brake line.. anyone know what all needs to be done? I have not got under it yet but I know it runs along the fuel tank and has to be a pain in the **** to do! Just a guess but Im thinking maybe the tank will have to come down? Gonna get started on it tomorrow and any input would be helpful and appreciated. Thanks
Last edited by Pitman; 11-27-2017 at 10:03 PM.
#2
Find the ends of the line, where the flare nuts screw into whatever part..... cut the line close to the nut, remove the nuts. Take 'em with ya to the parts store, and get a straight section of line in the size/length you need. Then just stick it under there, and hand bend it to fit. Tighten up the nuts, and bleed your brakes. Good time to flush the whole system. (get two quarts of fluid......)
#3
Find the ends of the line, where the flare nuts screw into whatever part..... cut the line close to the nut, remove the nuts. Take 'em with ya to the parts store, and get a straight section of line in the size/length you need. Then just stick it under there, and hand bend it to fit. Tighten up the nuts, and bleed your brakes. Good time to flush the whole system. (get two quarts of fluid......)
#4
The old line also probably has clips that hold it in place. Maybe I'm just cheap, but, I would rather pay less than 10 bucks for a brake line, than the prices they want for a pre-bent, plus shipping... But, I've been doin' this for a long time, and hand bending is a well-developed art form.
Hardest part is, as you guess, along the gas tank...... I don't know what the bends look like on your, but, may have to have it on a rack to be able to put it in without bending the line some.... Dropping the tank would make it easier, but, then you have to drop the tank.... which is another exercise I am just not a fan off.
Hardest part is, as you guess, along the gas tank...... I don't know what the bends look like on your, but, may have to have it on a rack to be able to put it in without bending the line some.... Dropping the tank would make it easier, but, then you have to drop the tank.... which is another exercise I am just not a fan off.
#6
8 bolts to remove a short box I think they are 10-1.5mm with 15mm hex, (1997 Dakota)
and make sure you have less than 3/4 tank of fuel, then clean and remove the 2 fuel lines to the box,
(full up one and breathe) at the tank and cover with a plastic bag and some electrical tape to keep dirt out.
or remove tork screws at box and have some one to help to guide the plastic frame out as box is lifted.
it could otherwise be broken..
The NiCopp line is the best brake line and easy to double flare (or a ISO Bubble flare)
Don't bother to try to follow the OEM route(leave the rusted old ones) just get 20 feet of shrink tube and cover the entire Nickle copper tube.
I used the steel line a few years ago from the diff left and right rear-end (regretted) . But used the much better NiCopp line
to the front to rear. The hard one on a '97 Dakota is the left side, with the box off it will be easy.
Stainless is harder to work with, but also would be good choice.
and make sure you have less than 3/4 tank of fuel, then clean and remove the 2 fuel lines to the box,
(full up one and breathe) at the tank and cover with a plastic bag and some electrical tape to keep dirt out.
or remove tork screws at box and have some one to help to guide the plastic frame out as box is lifted.
it could otherwise be broken..
The NiCopp line is the best brake line and easy to double flare (or a ISO Bubble flare)
Don't bother to try to follow the OEM route(leave the rusted old ones) just get 20 feet of shrink tube and cover the entire Nickle copper tube.
I used the steel line a few years ago from the diff left and right rear-end (regretted) . But used the much better NiCopp line
to the front to rear. The hard one on a '97 Dakota is the left side, with the box off it will be easy.
Stainless is harder to work with, but also would be good choice.