I am looking at a 60k maint. and the shops want $750 to $850. Can someone help me with any special details for DIY. The biggest thing is changing the plugs for me, as half the plugs are tucked under the dash. Torque settings for the plugs and coil bolts? I can't find the crazy PCV valve. The trany flush should not be a problem. Is it important to plug the engine into the computer that only the shops would have? I fit within maintenance logbook Schedule A.

 

Welcome!

Heres some great information.
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/new-mopar-hemi.html

As for the plugs you should only use Champion (OEM). There are 2 plugs per cylinder. The ones you really need to replace is the spark plugs under the coil packs. The other is for the back side of power stroke and isn't as important but they should be replaced together.

On the package will show you how to install the plugs. Hand turn them into the head then bottom them out and snug them 1/8 turn but don't torque the crap out of them (just snug em tight).

Look here for PVC location: https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-r...tml#post220066

 

Thanks hydrashocker. I am determined to change the plugs and PCV myself. The Chilton book does not have the blow-by-blow tips and diagrams that I am hoping to get to help me do the installs. If anyone has more info, it would be appreciated. We loaded our Durango full with 2 soft tops carriers and 4 people for a week long camping trip. This rig really drives wells, smooth, and quiet; even loaded down.

 

PCV valve is just a pull and replace. You pull the hose off then pull the PCV valve out and replace. Find the black hose going down from the Throttle Body intake and at the end will be the PCV valve.

Plugs are easy. You can ask a parts pro at Auto Zone how to gap the plugs and tools needed or simply take it to the shop.

 

I found the PCV valve and replaced it for $35. The valve is mounted vertically above the intake manifold and is recessed flush in a plastic housing off the right side of the air intake throttle body. Only the top of the valve is exposed to view. There are no external hoses and the engine uses internal tubing to the PCV valve. The valve is removed with a 1/4 turn counter clock screw twist and then pulled up. The black plastic air chamber cover over the engine (with the 5.7L Hemi logo on it) has to be removed by disconnecting the air intake hose and (2) 10mm mounting bolts. I removed the oil cap for clearance to get the cover out. I had to disconnect an electrical hub and a support clip for electrical wires also in order to remove the cover. Once removed, the valve can be accessed. I had to use small pliers to break the seal, then the valve turned and lifted right out. When I do this the next time, it will only be a 5 minute job.

 

I was able to replace the plugs, but it was slow. Being my first time with this vehicle, it took me 3 hours, with the right side being much faster. I chose to use Champion Copper Plus plugs rather than platium, and I'll need to change them again in another 30k miles, which follows Dodge's preference. Tools used were a 3/8" ratchet, (2) 3" extensions, a 6" extension, 5/8" plug socket, and 10 mm socket. Especially on the left side, I had to use single and stacked 3" extensions, due to clearances. I did not use anti-sieze compound on the plug threads, believing that Champion has a coating applied already. I did not use a torque wrench to set the plugs and coil bolts, as the Champion instructions said to tighten 1/16 turn from snug. I used compressed air to clean the valve cover prior to removing anything. There's my DYI.

 

I just had my plugs replaced at 29,000 miles with Champion iridium. It cost me $90.00 in labor as I bought the plugs at www.sparkplugs.com . What else did you have quoted for $850.00?
FF

 

They were going to flush the transmission also (60k maint point). I am a Schedule A driver (vs Schedule B), and a trany flush is not listed below 120k miles. There was about $300 in labor to change the plugs due to the engine being tucked under the hood on these Durangos.

I may not have done my plug change perfectly, as I am getting a light ticking noise that is noticeable in the cab. Bummer, I need to check my plug thread seating and boot fit.

 

I would go to another mechanic in the future. $300.00 just to change the plugs, not including the cost of the plugs, is extremely high. Like I posted above, my local mechanic (not a friend or a friend of a friend deal) only charged my $90.00 in labor. I am glad to see that you were not taken advantage,
FF

 

yea. $300? You must have gone to the dealer? They charge
you a shop hour just to shake hands and another $20 for a smile.