Do I really need a trans/diff/transfer case service at 50k?
I tool our 08 Aspen to the Chrysler dealer and they told me it needed a tune up (plug change), pcv, air filter, front and rear diff service, a transfer case service,a fuel system service for "all the carbon" (?) and a transmission service for $1100.
I have the service manuals for the 08 Aspen and Durango and no where does it say to change all these fluids unless I'm towing or using the truck for taxi or police service. It says under severe use conditions to then change the PCV valve at 90k miles. The plugs I did have them change for $220 (free plugs). But honestly, do I really need the rest of these "services"? I called around and all the dealers recommend them at 30k miles for some reason. Is this just to make money?
If I do need to do these I'm pretty sure I can drain/refill them myself. I just didn't want to try changing the plugs, too much of a PIA and a change at cross threading or damaging the heads.
I went ahead and changed the PCV before I saw the 90k recommendation and of course the air filter got swapped with a K&N.
I have the service manuals for the 08 Aspen and Durango and no where does it say to change all these fluids unless I'm towing or using the truck for taxi or police service. It says under severe use conditions to then change the PCV valve at 90k miles. The plugs I did have them change for $220 (free plugs). But honestly, do I really need the rest of these "services"? I called around and all the dealers recommend them at 30k miles for some reason. Is this just to make money?
If I do need to do these I'm pretty sure I can drain/refill them myself. I just didn't want to try changing the plugs, too much of a PIA and a change at cross threading or damaging the heads.
I went ahead and changed the PCV before I saw the 90k recommendation and of course the air filter got swapped with a K&N.
Last edited by xray328; Mar 16, 2011 at 07:54 PM.
I had my differentials fluids changed at 30,000 miles and I think it was $200.00 a piece and my transfer case fluid changed with ATF +4 for maybe $100.00. A tune-up should be between $100-$200.00 every 30,000 miles including plugs, pcv and cleaning the throttle body. THe dealer seems a bit high, but any other body shop would be close,
FF
FF
Why though, because the dealer said so?
None of that is in the owners manual OR service manual.
I called Chysler HQ and they said if it's in the manual do it, if it's not then don't.
They even went so far as to say that if I changed it and the owners manual didn't say to, they could deny the warranty.
None of that is in the owners manual OR service manual.
I called Chysler HQ and they said if it's in the manual do it, if it's not then don't.
They even went so far as to say that if I changed it and the owners manual didn't say to, they could deny the warranty.
That's just my thought. I hate doing things like this because the "dealer recommends it".
We just bought it used last week, so I'm not sure about the previous owners driving habits. The trans fluid is pink and clear though.
Maybe this can wait til 75k.
We just bought it used last week, so I'm not sure about the previous owners driving habits. The trans fluid is pink and clear though.
Maybe this can wait til 75k.
Xray:
If you can do some research via Carfax, you might be able to find the servicing dealer to know what has and has not been done.
Your local dealer might also be able to pull up its history through their nationwide computer network.
If you cannot locate info for a baseline, I would say trans first, then T case and then differentials. Plugs can run as long as you want them. Once the center electrodes are gone, the car will just quit and then you'll need new ones.
As much as the tranny, T case, and diffs cost to repair/replace, I would try to do them at least every 50k.
OEM ATF +4 for the trans and t case, and Mobil 1 or Royal Purple for the diffs.
Don
If you can do some research via Carfax, you might be able to find the servicing dealer to know what has and has not been done.
Your local dealer might also be able to pull up its history through their nationwide computer network.
If you cannot locate info for a baseline, I would say trans first, then T case and then differentials. Plugs can run as long as you want them. Once the center electrodes are gone, the car will just quit and then you'll need new ones.
As much as the tranny, T case, and diffs cost to repair/replace, I would try to do them at least every 50k.
OEM ATF +4 for the trans and t case, and Mobil 1 or Royal Purple for the diffs.
Don
The bottom line is, how long u plan to keep the car? If you want it to last over 200k miles with no Major repair, go for Maintainence.
If you are going to get rid of the car no more than 100k, let the next owner worry about it.
Is like, if you want to live longer, Eat healthy, watch ur Diet. and there really isn't any book that tells you "You will die at age of 30 if you eat McDonald everyday."
Plugs, u can wait til the Check engine light comes on, don't matter much. But transmission and other Drive train component... doesn't work that way.
If you are going to get rid of the car no more than 100k, let the next owner worry about it.
Is like, if you want to live longer, Eat healthy, watch ur Diet. and there really isn't any book that tells you "You will die at age of 30 if you eat McDonald everyday."
Plugs, u can wait til the Check engine light comes on, don't matter much. But transmission and other Drive train component... doesn't work that way.
Last edited by steak59; Mar 18, 2011 at 07:03 PM.
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I had them do the plugs since it seems like a real PIA along with the air filter. Sorry, did that before you guys responded.
I did the PCV myself.
I'm going to tackle to trans fluid and transfer case next.
The service manual says:
NOTE: Before installing the oil pan bolt in the bolt hole located between the torque convertor clutch on and U/D clutch pressure tap circuits, it will be necessary to replenish the sealing patch on the bolt using Mopar Lock and Seal Adhesive.
What's that all about?
What's the "sealing patch"?
I did the PCV myself.
I'm going to tackle to trans fluid and transfer case next.
The service manual says:
NOTE: Before installing the oil pan bolt in the bolt hole located between the torque convertor clutch on and U/D clutch pressure tap circuits, it will be necessary to replenish the sealing patch on the bolt using Mopar Lock and Seal Adhesive.
What's that all about?
What's the "sealing patch"?
I called the original owners dealership. They said it looked like the car was pretty well taken care of, but couldn't release the prior owners records...some kinda privacy issues. Seriously?
Never mind, got it figured out. Trans Service, Done.
I had them do the plugs since it seems like a real PIA along with the air filter. Sorry, did that before you guys responded.
I did the PCV myself.
I'm going to tackle to trans fluid and transfer case next.
The service manual says:
NOTE: Before installing the oil pan bolt in the bolt hole located between the torque convertor clutch on and U/D clutch pressure tap circuits, it will be necessary to replenish the sealing patch on the bolt using Mopar Lock and Seal Adhesive.
What's that all about?
What's the "sealing patch"?
I did the PCV myself.
I'm going to tackle to trans fluid and transfer case next.
The service manual says:
NOTE: Before installing the oil pan bolt in the bolt hole located between the torque convertor clutch on and U/D clutch pressure tap circuits, it will be necessary to replenish the sealing patch on the bolt using Mopar Lock and Seal Adhesive.
What's that all about?
What's the "sealing patch"?
Last edited by 1969CoronetR/T; Mar 19, 2011 at 08:39 AM.
Xray:
Have not heard of that patch thing either. Sounds like you got a hold of someone who worries about nonsense.
While I agree that certain things should be protected in today's world to an extent, the service advisor I spoke to was very happy to share with me the history on my D.
Without his kindness, I would never have known that my Hemi had just 14k on it instead of the 53k the odometer showed when I drove her off the lot. The engine died at 39k, and was replaced for the previous owner under the 7/70 powertrain warranty for the $100 deductible.
Per the SA, the bill would have been ~$4700 without the 7/70.
Don
Have not heard of that patch thing either. Sounds like you got a hold of someone who worries about nonsense.
While I agree that certain things should be protected in today's world to an extent, the service advisor I spoke to was very happy to share with me the history on my D.
Without his kindness, I would never have known that my Hemi had just 14k on it instead of the 53k the odometer showed when I drove her off the lot. The engine died at 39k, and was replaced for the previous owner under the 7/70 powertrain warranty for the $100 deductible.
Per the SA, the bill would have been ~$4700 without the 7/70.
Don



