WARNING: LONG!!!

Disclaimer #1: I am not a mechanic, I work on cars for fun and to save cash. This is just a replay of today and a decent guide on how to swap the fluid and filter. This is no way, in any shape or form, a go all for every make/model of the durango's. Do the following at your own risk.

Disclaimer #2: I also suggest if you plan on doing this, wear your PPE (Personal Protection Equipment). What is that, gloves that will not allow fluid to get on your hands, safety glasses so fluid doesn't splash into your eyes. I would also state you should have A LOT of towels (shop towels rule) on hand and ready to go because you WILL make a mess. (Thank GOD for an epoxy garage floor).

So today I decided to tackle the transmission fluid/filters (yes, 2) swap in the wife's 2005 Durango. This was my first time doing this on her D, so it took a little bit to figure out the "little" things.

Things you need before you start:
1. Minimum 6 quarts of ATF+4 transmission fluid
2. Both tranmission filter (one will be long and flat, the other will look like an oil filter)
3. Black silcon sealant (ie..gasket maker (started with a "P", but forget the name off the top of my head).

****Other things you will need will be stated through the write up.****

Background: The Durango is a 2005 with 70k miles on it. We bought it with 66k miles on it back in March. It has the 4.7 Magnum with the 545FE (IIRC) and is AWD/4WD.

First thing I thought about doing the job just as the D sits in the garage. That became obvious that my fat butt wasn't going to be possible, at least not comfy.

I tried putting it up on my black plastic ramps like I do with the Stratus and my Camaro. That was a no go.

I ended up getting my trusty 3 ton jack out and the jack stands (one pair 3 ton, other pair 2.25 ton). Up it went. I had plenty of room to work now and it still fit inside the garage door.

Items you need at first are as follows:
1. 8mm socket
2. Long extension
3. Ratchet (I used all 3/8")
4. Catch can
5. Something to lay on (I used a cardboard box that was laying around)
6. Rubber Mallet/hammer (comes in real handy)
7. Medium size straight screw driver
8. If you have the attachment to use your cordless drill you can substitute it for 1,2 and 3 (just note that you may still have to break the bolts loose...I had to)

I don't remember how many bolts that hold the plate on exactly (wasn't taking pictures or notes), but there are around 12-14 (I want to say 13).

I loosened them all up and used my cordless drill the take all but four of them out. The remaining four bolts, I took out about 1/2 way. I then placed my catch can under the transmission pan. I used my rubber hammer to lightly tap the pan loose.

At this point, the pan will start draining some fluid. This part takes a while because there are 6 quarts coming out of the pan area. Don't be like me, be patient and keep the mess to a minimum. When the draining slows to a trickle, I used my screwdriver carefully to pull the pan down a little bit on one side to allow more fluid to flow out and moved the catch can under it.

After you think you have enough fluid out, pick a side and take off one bolt (3 should still be holding the pan up) and continue trying to drain the pan. Once you're satisified that you drained enough, hold the pan with one hand and take the other 3 bolts out. I layed the pan over the catch can to continue draining the can.

Filter #1: The flat filter is held in by a small bolt and pressed in. You are going to need a small star shaped tip (think interchangeable screwdriver end) and unscrew the screw holding the flat filter in. After placing it in a SAFE area because you are going to use it again, you need to pull down hard on both ends of the filter for it to come out. Make sure the seal comes out with it. If not, you need to remove it.

Filter #2: It looks like a small oil filter and is no where near as large as our stock oil filter. Why does this matter, because whatever you use to remove the stock oil filter, may not work on this one, so make sure you have the ability to remove it before you start. Otherwise, it's just like changing out an oil filter.

I would install filter #2 first, and then install filter #1 after that. I was working on the rear side of the transmission, so depending where you are working, it may be easier to reverse the install. Just make sure filter #1 has the O-ring on it before you push it into place and replace that screw you put in a safe area.

 

Now on to the pan.

The pan will have some sort of gasket or sealant on it. I took a razor blade and carefully scrapped it all off. I then took orange degreaser (Simple green or dish soap will work) and washed the heck out of the pan, both inside and out. Oh, I should meantion that there is a magnet on the inside of the pan. Take the magnet off and clean the heck out of it. If this is the first fluid change, it will have a lot of stuff on it. I will tell you to wear your PPE on this BIG TIME!!! Metal fillings (even the dusty stuff) will eat your lunch if you get it embedded into your fingers.

Set the pan outside and let it dry. Wipe it out with a lint free rag or shop towel (the blue ones I mentioned before).

Place the magnet back inside the pan.

Grab the silicon 'gasket maker' and make a nice beed around the pan. I then used a gloved hand to smear it evenly over the surface where it mates to the transmission (Where the bolt holes are). Cover the entire area. Give it a few minutes to become tacky (Follow the directions on the tube for best results).

Place the pan back on the bottom of the transmission and start threading the bolts in by your fingers. Some might be tough because the sealent may cover the hole, just push and you'll clear the way and the bolt will grab into the bolt hole and start to fasten down. Its up to you in the order you want to tighten them down, but I try to criss-cross around the pan. I just snug them without slamming it down, so I don't have a torque value, but they're tight enough that there are no drips in my driveway this pm after driving the Durango around on a few trips earlier.

Now, I took the catch can out and filled up used milk jugs and got approximately 6 quarts out of the transmission. I cleaned up the tools *a must!* and then added 6 quarts into the transmission via the dipstick tube in the engine bay.

NOTE:MAKE SURE YOU USE THE CORRECT TUBE. It is the one on the LEFT because the one on the right is your engine oil and that would be a bad day in Bosnia if you made that mistake.

However many quarts you took out, replace with the new fluid. After my first run today, I checked the fluid in the transmission and it was perfect between the hot "holes" on the dipstick.

Drove to get lunch/dinner, drove to my father-in-laws (both 20+ minutes each way) and the transmission seems to shift smoother. The truck runs fine and no drips in the driveway (incase you're afraid to use the gasket maker like I was).

I hope this helps. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions and I can help out in any way.