Remanufactured engine Causing problems.
Hello!
Bought this 2004 dodge durango hemi a year ago or so and its caused more problems than any other vehicle I have ever had.
80K miles. Valve seats fell into #4. goodby original motor. Bought a
yard motor and it blew, same reason, third engine same thing. Finally the company we bought the motor from due to their guarantee decided to give us a re-manufactured motor. The new motor was noisy, sounded like a diesel but much quieter after 1000 miles of break in under 50 mpg, first trip on the highway at 65 caused a loud knocking noise. next morning when i was going to take it back to the mechanic it was gone. Figured it must be a sticky lifter, but the diesel sound remains. 4K later, we drove it 1000 miles for the holidays without issue. Tonight when accelerating hard to get into traffic, a loud knocking [not ticking, KNOCKING, and hard] comes back. kind of like that sound when you put a car in park while its moving, I let the car cool down, no change, checked each cylinder one at a time removing the plug wires, no change. On a hunch I got on the road and floored it hard as I could, hit about 6000 rpms, and the knocking went away. The thing still sound like a quiet diesel... The mechanic that put the new motors in the car doesnt know HEMIS well enough to know, the dealer wants 800 to tear a new motor down jsut to find out. There was no metal in the oil when they drained and strained it, and the cold oil PSI tests were fine.
Anyone have any clue what this could be? this cant be a lifter. way to loud a knocking and not a tapping. its not temperature dependent. and its not a gradual thing, just suddenly bang, its knocking loud as heck. Now its starting to click every few miles and then go away[ the same car not quite in gear click
Help, we do not want to drive this thing 1300 miles home if its going to blow a torque converter or something on the way.
Bought this 2004 dodge durango hemi a year ago or so and its caused more problems than any other vehicle I have ever had.
80K miles. Valve seats fell into #4. goodby original motor. Bought a
yard motor and it blew, same reason, third engine same thing. Finally the company we bought the motor from due to their guarantee decided to give us a re-manufactured motor. The new motor was noisy, sounded like a diesel but much quieter after 1000 miles of break in under 50 mpg, first trip on the highway at 65 caused a loud knocking noise. next morning when i was going to take it back to the mechanic it was gone. Figured it must be a sticky lifter, but the diesel sound remains. 4K later, we drove it 1000 miles for the holidays without issue. Tonight when accelerating hard to get into traffic, a loud knocking [not ticking, KNOCKING, and hard] comes back. kind of like that sound when you put a car in park while its moving, I let the car cool down, no change, checked each cylinder one at a time removing the plug wires, no change. On a hunch I got on the road and floored it hard as I could, hit about 6000 rpms, and the knocking went away. The thing still sound like a quiet diesel... The mechanic that put the new motors in the car doesnt know HEMIS well enough to know, the dealer wants 800 to tear a new motor down jsut to find out. There was no metal in the oil when they drained and strained it, and the cold oil PSI tests were fine.
Anyone have any clue what this could be? this cant be a lifter. way to loud a knocking and not a tapping. its not temperature dependent. and its not a gradual thing, just suddenly bang, its knocking loud as heck. Now its starting to click every few miles and then go away[ the same car not quite in gear click
Help, we do not want to drive this thing 1300 miles home if its going to blow a torque converter or something on the way.
Last edited by etdavenport; Dec 24, 2012 at 11:15 PM.
Just had a remanufactured Engine from Powertrain Products Inc Installed in my 04 Durango after my original 5.7 dropped a valve seat. They told me that they address every known problem with these engines and have a 4 year 1,000,000 mile warrenty for an extra $200.00. I had an AAA extended service contract which was a nightmare unto itself with the provider trying everything possible to get out of it. Eventually after a month of fighting with AAA I got the engine put in. I have had 3 MOPARs and not one of them has ever worn out an engine every one died from a factory defect catstropic failure. A 69 GTX 440 broke a con rod bolt, my 97 ramvan 4.7 sucked all the oil out of the engine at 65 miles per on the PA turnpike and this one with the valve breaking the piston. Although Mopar seems to give you the most bang for the buck the unacknowledged factory defects have completly turned me against them. I hope the Freightliner motorhome chasis is made better because I just noticed that it says Daimiler Chrysler on the vin tags the driveline is Caterpillar and Allison so that should help. That being said I have purchased my last Chrysler product ever as they don't give a rats a$$ about quality or customer care
Last edited by AndyZ; Feb 17, 2013 at 09:39 PM.
AndyZ, everyone is entitled to their opinion, but you may be correct with the 2004 model being a failure. I had a 2003 with zero problems for four years and now I have a 2007 with a three problems. Gas tank purging (recalled), ignition locking ($400.00 locksmith) and a destroyed transmission ($3200.00). The transmission is most likely my fault due to the engine upgrades and the hard launches. Every make has their problems and solely not just Chrysler products. My brother got a Murano and within a week the transmission was dead and was replaced under warranty. My other brother had a transmission failed three times within a year on his Tahoe ten years ago. Guess what he still drives? My wife has a Suburban LTZ for two years now without one single problem and she had a 2005 Trailblazer for five years before the Suburban with no problems. If you do not like Chrysler products, good luck with another brand.
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