2004 4x4 Hemi LTD Rear Caliper Replacement -- Issues
Hi everyone,
I have a 2004 Durango 4x4 Hemi LTD and my rear driver side caliper recently started spraying brake fluid everywhere when driving. As it turns out the piston was leaking. I noticed the ABS and traction control lights came on too and figured this was due to the messed up caliper. I bought a Duralast remanufactured caliper from Autozone (part C662) and replaced the caliper yesterday. (yes, the bleeder screw is on top) Everything seemed to go OK with the swap. I did not replace the pads at the time because they were still in OK shape and I really didn't have the money at that moment. I've never bled brakes before but know how to do it in concept. I had my wife pump the brakes a few times while I had the bleeder screw open and flushed some of the gunk out. I then closed the bleeder screw while she held the brake down and had per pump them a few more times until the pedal got nice and stiff. (I know, this sounds like the beginnings of a porno
)
I filled the master cylinder back up (it was about half full) and took it for a test drive. The brakes stop fine but the ABS and traction lights are still lit on the dash. No more leaks though. I notice there's a but of a dragging and squeaking sound coming from that rear wheel and it feels like my truck is still dragging a bit, like the brake is being pressed down back there. I'm tired, cranky, and out of ideas at this point.
Any suggestions on how to get those two lights on my dash to go off? Should I be worried about the dragging noise?
I have a 2004 Durango 4x4 Hemi LTD and my rear driver side caliper recently started spraying brake fluid everywhere when driving. As it turns out the piston was leaking. I noticed the ABS and traction control lights came on too and figured this was due to the messed up caliper. I bought a Duralast remanufactured caliper from Autozone (part C662) and replaced the caliper yesterday. (yes, the bleeder screw is on top) Everything seemed to go OK with the swap. I did not replace the pads at the time because they were still in OK shape and I really didn't have the money at that moment. I've never bled brakes before but know how to do it in concept. I had my wife pump the brakes a few times while I had the bleeder screw open and flushed some of the gunk out. I then closed the bleeder screw while she held the brake down and had per pump them a few more times until the pedal got nice and stiff. (I know, this sounds like the beginnings of a porno
)I filled the master cylinder back up (it was about half full) and took it for a test drive. The brakes stop fine but the ABS and traction lights are still lit on the dash. No more leaks though. I notice there's a but of a dragging and squeaking sound coming from that rear wheel and it feels like my truck is still dragging a bit, like the brake is being pressed down back there. I'm tired, cranky, and out of ideas at this point.
Any suggestions on how to get those two lights on my dash to go off? Should I be worried about the dragging noise?
Take it to a dealer and have them properly bleed the brakes since you have ABS. The ABS pump is probably not pressurized correctly. Since you already know what needs to be done, they will only charge you to bleed the system correctly.
Just a quick update...
The dragging sound turned out to be a completely destroyed rear driver side wheel bearing combined with the rear driver side axle shaft rubbing inside of the housing due to the missing bearing. I ended up needing to replace the entire axle shaft because it got dangerously thin in one spot from all the rubbing. Now I have a new wheel bearing and axle shaft and the rubbing noise is gone. The ABS and traction lights are still on which prevents me from using the cruise control. Since I drive 800 miles every other weekend to see my daughter the lack of cruise control is very annoying.
So, is the recommendation still to have the dealer bleed the brakes? Also, do autozone or advance auto have the necessary scanners to read ABS codes?
The dragging sound turned out to be a completely destroyed rear driver side wheel bearing combined with the rear driver side axle shaft rubbing inside of the housing due to the missing bearing. I ended up needing to replace the entire axle shaft because it got dangerously thin in one spot from all the rubbing. Now I have a new wheel bearing and axle shaft and the rubbing noise is gone. The ABS and traction lights are still on which prevents me from using the cruise control. Since I drive 800 miles every other weekend to see my daughter the lack of cruise control is very annoying.
So, is the recommendation still to have the dealer bleed the brakes? Also, do autozone or advance auto have the necessary scanners to read ABS codes?
[QUOTE=jason331;3274548]Just a quick update...
The dragging sound turned out to be a completely destroyed rear driver side wheel bearing combined with the rear driver side axle shaft rubbing inside of the housing due to the missing bearing. I ended up needing to replace the entire axle shaft because it got dangerously thin in one spot from all the rubbing. Now I have a new wheel bearing and axle shaft and the rubbing noise is gone. The ABS and traction lights are still on which prevents me from using the cruise control. Since I drive 800 miles every other weekend to see my daughter the lack of cruise control is very annoying.
So, is the recommendation still to have the dealer bleed the brakes? Also, do autozone or advance auto have the necessary scanners to read ABS codes?[/QUOTE
The dragging sound turned out to be a completely destroyed rear driver side wheel bearing combined with the rear driver side axle shaft rubbing inside of the housing due to the missing bearing. I ended up needing to replace the entire axle shaft because it got dangerously thin in one spot from all the rubbing. Now I have a new wheel bearing and axle shaft and the rubbing noise is gone. The ABS and traction lights are still on which prevents me from using the cruise control. Since I drive 800 miles every other weekend to see my daughter the lack of cruise control is very annoying.
So, is the recommendation still to have the dealer bleed the brakes? Also, do autozone or advance auto have the necessary scanners to read ABS codes?[/QUOTE



