Pace (what you have) and Haulmark are two of the bigger brands. Both are quite good if you take care of them and don't beat on them. Your plug connector is the standard 7 prong RV blade connector. Make sure you get a vehicle end with the blades and not pins. Dielectric grease is your friend here. Keep the blades lubed with it and you'll have a good connection and bright lights.

One thing I learned the hard way, if you replace your lights with LED lights, they will be brighter with a lower current draw, BUT, they need a dedicated ground for each light. Grounding to the frame isn't good enough. On my units, I changed the lights and ran each one to a common ground wire. This wire was run to a frame ground near the nose with another wire from that common ground to the ground on the connector. This bypasses the frame ground resistance. If you have a mix of incandescent and LED lights they will all work and if you just have LED, it will be easier to track down a wiring fault later.

I also run reflective tape on the rear and sides. It's not required but headlights cause it to light up big at night on the interstate highways. Even more so in fog and on back roads. Large trucks are required to run it so it's readily available. I had a wiring fault once and my right trailer tail light failed. Until I got the wire tracked down and repaired, I had good illumination in the rear from headlights.

 

I'm farther south than you by quite a bit. The little snow we had melted so I went and took a couple of photos of my wiring with the dedicated ground wire and reflective tape on my utility trailer.



The two wires use the frame as a junction. One wire goes to the LEDs and the other to the ground connection on the wiring connector.



The reflective tape isn't required for this small a trailer but I prefer to be safe. The paint hadn't cured properly when I applied it so some is coming off. I've had the trailer since about 1990-91 and the paint had faded.

 

Thaks for the pictures, handy and sturdy trailer you got there
Here I have to have reflectors on all sides, red in the rear yellow on the sides and white in the front.
And all trailers must have license plates.
If anything is out of order you get fined and are not allowed to continue driving. I guess it makes sense in the greater scheme but there is no space for common sense anymore.

 

I dated a gal who was a Motor Carrier Enforcement officer. She told me the best way to promotion was to write nit picking tickets. She mentioned one officer who wrote a ticket on a truck with the trailer outlined in clearance lights. Nearly 100 lights surrounding the side of the trailer. One, bout halfway up the front was burned out. Technically, it was one of nearly 100 and unless you looked close, you'd never notice. Still, it WAS a clearance light and it WAS burned out. $85 ticket.

My state requires license plates on trailers. I live 3 miles from the state line with Kentucky and they don't require plates if you don't leave the state. I retired from logistics so I always keep my equipment up and loads are always securely strapped. I had a DOT officer try to find fault with my rig once but he couldn't find anything wrong with my setup.

 

It always depends on how you meet and how much coffee they had.
I once got stopped and that man tried to tell me that my pickup a 1998 Toyota hilux was missing a rear bumper, i told him ther don’t made the old ones with a bumper he got so upset he checked the hole car for anything wrong.I came 30 min late for work.

 

Back around 1978 or so, all light trucks under a GVW of 11,000 pounds were required to have a rear bumper in Indiana. I was a volunteer police officer for 10 years. Trust me, the people who think they are smart, get plenty of tickets. A decent attitude is more likely to get a warning. Then there are jerks with badges. I didn't like working with them as it creates so much paper work.