warped rotors
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Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Pueblo, CO
RE: warped rotors
I put the NAPA drilled and slotted rotors on in January and they are already warping! That a couple of sets of MOPAR and 1 set of NAPA. Something else is obvously wrong here. I will be going to Dodge tomorrow, but I'm not holding my breath that they will be able to fix it. They always seem to have some excuse. I paid about $250 for the NAPA rotors and now it seems as if I wasted my money. Any more ideas?
Joined: Feb 2006
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RE: warped rotors
It's not limited to Durango's, I had 3 sets warp on our Liberty before trading it. Now the Durango is doing the same. Strange thing though, the vibration seems to be there sometimes and not others? I'm wondering if something else isn't causing the vibration making my rotors feel warped. Seems like the vibration should be consistant if it's a warping problem.
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RE: warped rotors
Don't buy brake products from dealerships. They use the cheapest parts they can get their hands on for the most profit. Amico brakes are amazing and so are most aftermarket brakes. Ceramic pads are the way to go, least dust, and most ware. As far as rotors. I recomend going with slotted, dimpled, or regular rotors. The rotors that are cross drilled are prone to cracking. As far as suealing and low/soft pedal feel. It sounds like you have sticking calipers. Replace both at the same time, it'll save you time and hassle. + if you replace only one, it will have a dominat side and pull when you brake. Another possibility could be air in the lines. BLEED YOUR BRAKES. Also brake fluid needs to be changed at least once a year. It's hydroscopic meaning that they absorb water from the atmosphere. Brake fluid is very resistant to compression yet water is not. SO CHANGE IT OUT!!!
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RE: warped rotors
Cross drilled/slotted rotors can be prone to cracking, but most of those problems are due to not being properly broken in. Like transmissions and motors, all rotors have to be properly "broken" in.
You can read up on it here.....
http://baer.com/cgi-bin/htmlos.exe/0...25016000002573
You can read up on it here.....
http://baer.com/cgi-bin/htmlos.exe/0...25016000002573
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Registered User
Joined: Sep 2004
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From: Pueblo, CO
RE: warped rotors
Just a follow-up to my warped rotor ongoing problems. I took off my American Racing rims and put the originals back on. I then had all 4 rotors done with Napa slotted and drilled. The dealership replaced the front ones under warranty and put new ones on the back for me. It's only been 3000 miles, but I think the problem has been fixed. The last ones warped within 2000 miles. Obviously I had problems keeping the lugs tight on the AR wheels. Expensive lesson learned.
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From: Colorado Springs, CO
RE: warped rotors
Here's another reason to add on to the above mentioned...
Dealerships and any local garage tend to use air tools and they are not torqued and thus put a lot of pressure on those bolts making the rotors warp. I let the dealership do it one time and guess what...yup, the fronts warped. I set my torque wrench by the book's setting and it quickly clicked, set it 5lbs up and it quickly clicked, I eventually got up to ~98lbs...some a bit higher. Go by the books torque specs and you'll be good. Anytime I had to have my wheels taken off from any garage from that point on...I removed the lugs and reinstalled them to book specs. That is what I've learned and I hadn't had problems from my stock rotors ever since I started double checking...I do the same with my GSX rotors too.
It's the dealership/garage's way of making you come back for them to charge you money that should be charged IMO.
Dealerships and any local garage tend to use air tools and they are not torqued and thus put a lot of pressure on those bolts making the rotors warp. I let the dealership do it one time and guess what...yup, the fronts warped. I set my torque wrench by the book's setting and it quickly clicked, set it 5lbs up and it quickly clicked, I eventually got up to ~98lbs...some a bit higher. Go by the books torque specs and you'll be good. Anytime I had to have my wheels taken off from any garage from that point on...I removed the lugs and reinstalled them to book specs. That is what I've learned and I hadn't had problems from my stock rotors ever since I started double checking...I do the same with my GSX rotors too.
It's the dealership/garage's way of making you come back for them to charge you money that should be charged IMO.
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RE: warped rotors
ORIGINAL: silvercoupe97
Here's another reason to add on to the above mentioned...
Dealerships and any local garage tend to use air tools and they are not torqued and thus put a lot of pressure on those bolts making the rotors warp. I let the dealership do it one time and guess what...yup, the fronts warped. I set my torque wrench by the book's setting and it quickly clicked, set it 5lbs up and it quickly clicked, I eventually got up to ~98lbs...some a bit higher. Go by the books torque specs and you'll be good. Anytime I had to have my wheels taken off from any garage from that point on...I removed the lugs and reinstalled them to book specs. That is what I've learned and I hadn't had problems from my stock rotors ever since I started double checking...I do the same with my GSX rotors too.
It's the dealership/garage's way of making you come back for them to charge you money that should be charged IMO.
Here's another reason to add on to the above mentioned...
Dealerships and any local garage tend to use air tools and they are not torqued and thus put a lot of pressure on those bolts making the rotors warp. I let the dealership do it one time and guess what...yup, the fronts warped. I set my torque wrench by the book's setting and it quickly clicked, set it 5lbs up and it quickly clicked, I eventually got up to ~98lbs...some a bit higher. Go by the books torque specs and you'll be good. Anytime I had to have my wheels taken off from any garage from that point on...I removed the lugs and reinstalled them to book specs. That is what I've learned and I hadn't had problems from my stock rotors ever since I started double checking...I do the same with my GSX rotors too.
It's the dealership/garage's way of making you come back for them to charge you money that should be charged IMO.
Something else to seriously keep in mind, is that some wheels really have to have the lugnuts tightened down in an alternate pattern, as opposed to going 1, 2, 3, 4, etc....the alternating pattern allows for a much better seating for the wheel, and it also helps to prevent the lugs from vibrating loose easier. Making sure the lugs are tightened properly and NOT overtightened is CRITICAL. I just changed out the wheels, tires, rotors, and brakes on my Stratus.....I broke about 7 handtools to break the lugnuts free.....some idiot slapped them on entirely TOO tight.....even with a 2hp air compressor gun at 135-140psi couldnt break them free....not even a budge....wound up using a 1/2 in breaker bar and a 4ft piece of pipe to get leverage to get em off.
I swear, if I could find the idiot who did that.....I'd hit him with a brick..
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RE: warped rotors
Silvercoupe97...you are exactly right about the torque issue. My dad has a 2002 Ram Quad Cab and everytime he takes it to have the tires rotated the dealer always uses the torque wrench on it. The service guy told him it would without doubt keet the rotors from warping. He bought the truck brand new, it now has 60k on it and the rotors are as smooth as the day it rolled off the lot. The service guy said every new vehicle they get that one of the first things they do is to loosen the lugs and then torque them to specs. It must eliminate alot of unnecessary work for them later on.
Joined: Jan 2006
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RE: warped rotors
TSB on the 2004 Durango regarding rotor warping / brake sqeel calls for changing torque specs to 110 ft lbs tightened in a star pattern then to 130 ft lb for final torque. Another thing - make sure that the mating surfaces on the hub and inside rotor surface AND inside wheel hub are completely free from rust/dirt. I use a brass wheel brush on a drill to remove all rust from these points and apply anti-seize to the areas. Any rust will cause a rotor to spin a few thousandths. These rotors and hub surfaces are prone to excessive surface rust.