a/c heater blower resistor short
#1
12-03-2006, 12:52 PM
a/c heater blower resistor short
I pulled the resistor to check if it was the culprit for my fan not working and I found that the first pin in the resistor has the plastic around it black and melted as is the plastic around the plug pin. There is a problem here that Dodge is not wanting to admit to seeing that this problem with the resistors affects more than just one type of car. I have a 2005 Durango. Does anyone have the same problem?? What is the fix as my warranty has run out?
#2
12-03-2006, 11:43 PM
RE: a/c heater blower resistor short
The cloud cars (stratus, cirrus, breeze) had this same issue. Here is the fix that they had. Hope this helps.:
This Repair will work if your fan only works on HIGH speed. I did it on my 95 Stratus, but it *should* be the same for all 1G's.
1:Locate the fan assembly under the glovebox (the big round black box), find the fan resistor assembly on bottom, it has 2 wire harnesses going into it.
2: Remove the 2 screws, remove the 2 connectors, you might need a small flat head screwdriver, the release clips are hard to press in.
3: Pry the 4 corner tabs of the metal heat shield cage straight with needle nose pliers, and slide cage off.
4: Find the thermal fuse, its the round tube with a blue marking on the end. Cut it out with wire cutters.
5: Replace the thermal fuse by soldering in the new one on the same connection points. Direction doesnt matter.
6: Install heat cage and bend tabs back.
7: Connect Wire harnesses, insert assembly and put the 2 screws back in.
8: Test ALL speeds.
Thermal Fuse
Radio Shack. Part # 270-1322 $1.49
Notes.
Use good solder like rosin 60/40 or close mix (dont add flux). Use a 30 watt or higher soldering pencil or gun. The OLD thermal fuse blows at 110*C, and the new one blows at 128*C, so it looses a little safety, but 18* shouldnt be enough to worry about. Using the Low, Mid-1, Mid-2 speeds create more resistance, which makes heat in the module, and that causes the thermal fuse to blow. Using it on highter speeds will help keep the fuse from blowing again. Do *NOT* test fan with the assemble out of the heater unit, you will blow the fuse again.
This Repair will work if your fan only works on HIGH speed. I did it on my 95 Stratus, but it *should* be the same for all 1G's.
1:Locate the fan assembly under the glovebox (the big round black box), find the fan resistor assembly on bottom, it has 2 wire harnesses going into it.
2: Remove the 2 screws, remove the 2 connectors, you might need a small flat head screwdriver, the release clips are hard to press in.
3: Pry the 4 corner tabs of the metal heat shield cage straight with needle nose pliers, and slide cage off.
4: Find the thermal fuse, its the round tube with a blue marking on the end. Cut it out with wire cutters.
5: Replace the thermal fuse by soldering in the new one on the same connection points. Direction doesnt matter.
6: Install heat cage and bend tabs back.
7: Connect Wire harnesses, insert assembly and put the 2 screws back in.
8: Test ALL speeds.
Thermal Fuse
Radio Shack. Part # 270-1322 $1.49
Notes.
Use good solder like rosin 60/40 or close mix (dont add flux). Use a 30 watt or higher soldering pencil or gun. The OLD thermal fuse blows at 110*C, and the new one blows at 128*C, so it looses a little safety, but 18* shouldnt be enough to worry about. Using the Low, Mid-1, Mid-2 speeds create more resistance, which makes heat in the module, and that causes the thermal fuse to blow. Using it on highter speeds will help keep the fuse from blowing again. Do *NOT* test fan with the assemble out of the heater unit, you will blow the fuse again.
