Kurt,

If I did this right, I turned the fan on, full cool, defrost and started the car. Held the rear def. button and the A/C light started flashing, did this for approx. 30 sec, went off, then the rear def. light stayed on.

 

As I mentioned before this is the procedure for a 97 and it may differ, but did you mean the rear defog light falshed (not the AC)? If it was the A/C light, I don't have an answer as the system must be diffrent. Also, make sure you run the steps in order:
To place the head in dig mode,
1. Start engine, the engine must be running for the entire test...do not move car.
2. Place the left **** (fan speed) to any except off.
3. Place center **** (temp) to full cool.
4. Place the right **** in defrost mode.
5. The AC button is ok on or off possition.
6. Press and hold the rear window defogger switch for 3 to 5 sec. The rear defog lamp will begin to flash, release the button when it begins to flash. The system is now in dig mode. If you wish to abort, turn the fan to off, move either of the other two ***** or press the AC or rear defog switch once.
7. The light should flash for about 30 sec and go out.

If it is the defog light on, it means the calibration was unsuccessful. The malfunction is either the control head or the door actuator. There is a way to isolate, but let me know if it's the a/c light or not before I continue.

 

It was the A/C light that flashed, not the rear def. light. Then after the A/C light was done flashing, the rear def. light. stayed on. I did follow your steps in order, although I positioned all 3 ***** and then started the car. Not sure if that would make any difference or not?

 

I don't know either as I actually have the AUTO control head, not the manual system (I just got the manual instructions right out of the book). Also with a diffrent light blinking and going out, (the AC), that may be the newer "in test" light. I think that would invalidate the defog light, but I'm not sure. Sorry I can't help more. You will need to try and get the correct instruction for your year. Good luck
Kurt

 

Kurt, Thanks for tthe help! It's appreciated!

 

I've been trying to tear into this, can anyone tell me where the heat actuator motor is for sure? Is it the one on the bottom of the heater core, down just above the floor, directly behind the radio-heater controls. I think that is it but Ive only been able to get one of the 3 screws out of it. Also there is a 4-5 or 6 ( I didnt count ) pin connector that plugs into this. Does anyone know which points should have power? I suck with electrical problems. I tried to find a picture of a heater actuator motor for this on the web but no luck.

 

That was it! Its full of water, not antifreeze, just water. Now I need to find my leak. I fixed the heat problem temporarilly by seperating the motor side and putting the side with the drive gears back in with one screw. Now I can reach under and open or close it by hand until I can get a new switch.

 

I was just about to upload a picture for you! It sounds like you found out anyway. Yes the one with three screws. I will say this though, upon removal, note the shaft position of the actuator, because the shaft on this motor is keyed. When installing a new actuator, its shaft must be positioned in the same location.

Here is a caution noted in the shop manual, you may want to heed:

WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIRBAGS,

DISABLE THE AIRBAG SYSTEM BEFORE

ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING

COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT

DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. DISCONNECT AND ISOLATE

THE BATTERY NEGATIVE (GROUND) CABLE,

THEN WAIT TWO MINUTES FOR THE AIRBAG SYSTEM

CAPACITOR TO DISCHARGE BEFORE PERFORMING

FURTHER DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. THIS

IS THE ONLY SURE WAY TO DISABLE THE AIRBAG

SYSTEM. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS

COULD RESULT IN AN ACCIDENTAL

AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL

INJURY.

PS Your "leak", is probably just a plugged up AC drain, over time they plug up with dirt, mold and gunk. When the AC runs, the water condensation has no where to go and can even overflow into the cab of the car. Blow out the tube with shop air.

 

Kurt,

Thanks again for the info on the air bags and the A/C drain. I'll bet your right. I didn't think of that. Getting to that motor was not fun. I didnt want to take out all of the radio,HVAC controls ect. in the center so I got the 1 screw out on the drivers side and then for the passenger side I removed the ductwork and then used an 8mm wrench clamped into a pair of vice grips to reach the back screw.That was about as fun as taking a beating, but I was glad to find the problem before it gets cold!