Error codes P1684 and P0700
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02 dodge intrepid
my engine lights on with code p0700 and i also noticed that most the time the "PRND123" lights are all on when it's P or N not all the time but most of the time, is this a good reason for p0700 code to be on and if so what needs to be replaced?
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I have a Chrysler 2000 300M with error codes P0700 and P1684. I don't have 1st gear but 2,3,4th gears work fine. The dealer says they scanned it and got codes 1775, 1790, and 1776. And they want to replace the valve body and solenoid pack for $1400. I don't have any trust in this dealership, is it worth taking it elsewhere or does the repair cost fit the error codes?
Thanks
Thanks
Last edited by peteo; Apr 2, 2012 at 02:43 PM.
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are the "P N D 1 2 3" all have a highlighted box around them. if your car is in park
P0700 is simply a generic fault code from the tcm (transmission control module). it does not indicate the need to replace sensors (although it does fix it on occasion).
i believe the problem lies somewhere in the electrical system. "The car stalled a few times on our drive home and the inside lights went dim." This points that power was lost. a speed sensor will only disable your speedometer depending upon whether it is the input or output sensor.
another question, does the speedometer work? are the "P N D 1 2 3" all have a highlighted box around them. if your car is in park, there should only be a ring around the "P".
i believe the problem lies somewhere in the electrical system. "The car stalled a few times on our drive home and the inside lights went dim." This points that power was lost. a speed sensor will only disable your speedometer depending upon whether it is the input or output sensor.
another question, does the speedometer work? are the "P N D 1 2 3" all have a highlighted box around them. if your car is in park, there should only be a ring around the "P".
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tcm has two plugs ins behind the drivers head light close to the long black fuse box
[QUOTE=vernc;1739998]The 8 to 9 Amp output was correct, so the lack of a readily available code reading is of no consequence. I found a rebuilt alternator and had it installed - voila!, problem solved. I'm still disturbed by the fact that sub-assembly component parts are nearly impossible to get anymore, forcing owners and small shops to install complete units at a much higher cost to the auto owners.
But then I'm from an earlier era when we pulled the starter solenoid out, slapped in a new contact disc, and had the customer on his way in an hour for only labor and $5 to $10 for parts. With an alternator, diode replacement was the same. But that was 30 years ago.
But then I'm from an earlier era when we pulled the starter solenoid out, slapped in a new contact disc, and had the customer on his way in an hour for only labor and $5 to $10 for parts. With an alternator, diode replacement was the same. But that was 30 years ago.
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Originally Posted by T hefrankie william s; 3 1948 23
[ QUOT E=vernc;173 9998] The 8 to t9 Amp output was correct, so the lack of a readily available code reading is of no consequence. I found a rebuilt alternator and had it installed - voila!, problem solved. I'm still disturbed by the fact that sub-assembly component parts are nearly impossible to get anymore, forcing owners and small shops to install complete units at a much higher cost to the auto owners.
But then I'm from an earlier era when we pulled the starter solenoid out, slapped in a new contact disc, and had the customer on his way in an hour for only labor and $5 to $10 for parts. With an alternator, diode replacement was the same. But that was 30 years ago.
But then I'm from an earlier era when we pulled the starter solenoid out, slapped in a new contact disc, and had the customer on his way in an hour for only labor and $5 to $10 for parts. With an alternator, diode replacement was the same. But that was 30 years ago.
