Hi all,

My gramma has a 1998 Intrepid 3.2 engine with 27k miles on it. Today We received error codes P1684 and P0700. The care stalled a few times on our drive home and the inside lights went dim.
Car was also stuck between 3-4k rpm and the odm. wasnt moving.
I looked up the codes and found that the battery could have been D/C within the last 50 starts. Also the 0700 code could be trans related or senser issue I think.
I think the battery has died a few times on her before, I blamed it on her leaving something on, but I dont think thats the issue. She does have a blinking red light on the dash that would appear to be an alarm but isnt. Im not sure if that may be draining the battery or not.

Thanks for your input.

Patrick

 

the battery code is prolly a result from a failing alternator, battery, coroded terminals or lines in between. the P0700 is a trans code fault prolly because of the drop in voltage. this will also cause the car to go into "limp mode" (why your car is stuck in the 3-4k rpm range). you will not get past second gear while attempting to drive. if you do try, you will more than likely blow the engine.

you can disconnect the negative terminal of the jump post for a few minutes to clear the codes. if the battery or alt is bad, they will simply return. get the alt and battery tested--most auto parts stores do this for free. this will help eliminate the electrical system as culprit. if they both test "good". then we can go from there.

 

Thanks for the info. I wont be able to test it for a few days though.


Patrick

 

I had the same codes on my 02 Caravan. After researching the forum, I found out that it was my output speed sensor - it is what causes the p0700 code to come on. I changed the output speed sensor and code was gone; I had no problems after that. The p1684 code went away as well. The part was only $15.00 and only took 5 minutes to replace it. The output speed sensor is located on the transmission housing. There are two speed sensors (output and input). The output speed sensor should be located nearest to the right fender wall. I believe that code lets you know that the battery has been disconnected within the last 50 starts. If you need to find out how to replace the output speed sensor, click on the HOLY GRAIL at the top of the 2nd generation forum page. There you can download or view the service manual. Hope this helps...

 

P0700 is simply a generic fault code from the tcm (transmission control module). it does not indicate the need to replace sensors (although it does fix it on occasion).
i believe the problem lies somewhere in the electrical system. "The car stalled a few times on our drive home and the inside lights went dim." This points that power was lost. a speed sensor will only disable your speedometer depending upon whether it is the input or output sensor.
another question, does the speedometer work? are the "P N D 1 2 3" all have a highlighted box around them. if your car is in park, there should only be a ring around the "P".

 

I have similar issues with my car, but after letting 3 people work on it, I am left with a result of a P0700 code and a P1776 code, and a hefty bill. Replaced Transmission, had solenoid pack replaced in transmission, and a new TCM. Wiring has been completely gone through also. Any suggestions

 

Forever Knight, my favorite show. Although an American, UI was in Toronto for most of years 2 and 3 filming and know most of the locations. As an ex-cop I loved the situations Nick often got involved in.

But back to the subject. (98 Intrepid with 2.7) I've got a flat dead battery, no warning until I tried to start it in the am. No codes at all. The mobile mechanic who checked it out says that the alternator is shot, putting out 8 or 9 amps where it should be putting out 95 or better. Probably diodes but apparently they don't repair alternators any more so I need to find a replacement.

Anyone got a replacement (I'm in Reno) or a suggestion?

 

For the 1776. Does the shifter move easily? A binding/misadjusted shift cable can set that code. If the speedo doesn't work you need an output speed sensor.

 

Don't dump the code (via the battery disconect). Bring to a shop that has the DRB scan tool (NOT AN OBD II TOOL). They can scan it and tell you exactly what is going on in the tranny. Dealers have this tool, as do some good trany shops.

 

The 8 to 9 Amp output was correct, so the lack of a readily available code reading is of no consequence. I found a rebuilt alternator and had it installed - voila!, problem solved. I'm still disturbed by the fact that sub-assembly component parts are nearly impossible to get anymore, forcing owners and small shops to install complete units at a much higher cost to the auto owners.

But then I'm from an earlier era when we pulled the starter solenoid out, slapped in a new contact disc, and had the customer on his way in an hour for only labor and $5 to $10 for parts. With an alternator, diode replacement was the same. But that was 30 years ago.

Today, someone's getting rich, but its not me.