My 1999 Intrepid 2.7L has a noisy slapping timing chain. I checked the marks on the hydraulic tensioner and all signs point to a stretched timing chain. My question is whether I actually need to replace the chain and sprockets at 130,000 miles or can I just replace the tensioners and the guides to take up the slack in the chain.

Has anyone replaced these tensioners and guides without actually removing the chain and sprockets? It seems like it would be a much easier fix. I realize that once I get it all apart I would want to replace the water pump which requires removing the chain but I don't want to fool with timing the motor once the chain is removed. I've witnessed a timing chain job gone wrong on a 2.7L where all of the marks were aligned exactly how the manual specified and the car never started. I saw the guy pull it apart and redo it 2 times after this and both times it still wouldn't start. It sounded like it had no compression which I'm assuming meant the intake valves all looked like a question mark.

Anyhow, will tensioner and guides quiet this thing down? I paid $500 for the car and i've put 40,000 miles on it. I'm not sure how much longer I plan on keeping it. Please advise... Thanks!

 

Hello, I just tore two 2.7 engines down. one had two blown rods. one had bad crank completely shot. I took both engines and made one. the one engine had a hole through the side of the block under the motor mount. It was ok everywhere else. I patched that hole with jb weld and some plate. I took a hammer and hit it after it set up and it never moved or cracked. It set like new and looks like part of the block now. I took pistons and rods which were good out of one and put in the other. New rings, turned crank on 10, new Clevite tri-alloy bearings(not the original electroplate that peel off after it gets hot), old head gaskets and new seals. old chain and old everything. it is tight as a jug. I suspect in your case the chain has become worn some. I have an old good one if you need it and an extra gear. I imagine your water pump is ok but your guides could be worn some. Or, the tensioner has lost it ability to keep it tension. That is due to the inner seals and the oil pressure to the tensioner. Do a side tap on the oil gallery hole with a pressure tester and see what the pressure is. I also know you can install a new 12 volt electrical oil pressure pump in the oil circuit and tap into the galley on the side of the block to maintain any pressure you want to set it at. Just drill and fit the oil pan with a connector, put a hydraulic line onto that and run it to a filter and then into the 12 volt electric oil pump and then to another oil filter before it goes into the galley hole on the side of the block. This will filter before and after the pump. This pressure in the galley should stay constant to your regulator on the pump. This will be a permanent assist to your regular oil pump that may be losing its ability to keep pressure up. I think that kit cost around 50 dollars.

 

when you replace the timing gear you have to make sure it is the right one and do not move the crank, or either cam . have replaced alot of them and you want to make sure the tone wheel is lined up correctly. check the new tone wheel to make sure it looks like the one you have one from a 2002 and up will not work.