ok so i am am gonna do a bottom and top end rebuild and need to know what might be the recomended size for everything i hava indy intake srt4 exhaust aem cold air intake 55mm throttle body. after i get the internals worked i want to go straight for a stage three turbo prolly 55trim sisnce that is what my intake is already. what i want to know is recommended sizes i know there is one guy one here that has done this before but for some reason i can't find that post. now these are things that will be coming from howell automotive but i will do my window shopping before i go ahead and spend 2000 dollars on crap.

first i have a regular neon with only those mods basic 2.0 sohc out of the 2005

bottom end rebuild!!!

long or standard rod?

the block is not bored but the pistons in this kit can come bored. 20, 30, or 40, should i get this done and if so is it just better to get a spare block so that i can get that done then take the old block out and put the new one in?

main bearing size?remember that no internal mods have been done. should i do standard, 25mm, 50, full grove main standard, full grove main 25mm, or full grove main 50mm?

pistons i was gonna go for 12.5 cause i think that it will get me the 12:1 compression that i am looking for. but the sizes are 8.6, 10.5, or 12.5.

and now rod sizes this is confusing but the sizes are 25mm or 50mm. i need some explanation on this measurement.

now this package doesn't come with a crank so if anyone can recommend a crank and size i'd appreciate it.

top end rebuild!!

now for that i was thinking that i got to go medium lift on the valves but for the money i am gonna go all the way to 14 but the sizes are 10 12 and 14 over and suggestions i am not worried bout roccker rollers as dodge was pretty smart with that already.

with you help and my work our powers combined will form capt. planet he's the heroe gone bring pollution down to zero with 4 teenagers by his side fighting on they're on theplanet side. oh yeah....

 

bump cause this time i actually have the money to do it all. ALOT of MONEEEEEY!!! YAY

 

Okay for starters nice tb size if your going turbo, no you dont have to go 55 turbo, after stage 3 there is a 50, 60, 60-1, not that I have heard. If your going turbo dont get the 12.5 pistons, go with the 8.5, 12.5 you will need race gas all the time, its too high a compression, 8.5 is great. Bore size doesnt matter, it will give you a bit more hp, .020 will be good to just clean up the cylinders, but its what ever you want, plus increasing bore size increases cubic inches, not much but still. If your goona build it for a turbo are you using stock rods? If you are get better ones. What kind of pistons are they, who makes them? stock rods for a 2.0L cant handle that much power, if your going with a stage 3 srt turbo, they can put down 399 whp with bolt ons, seen it. Plus not sure how strong your trans are. Stanard main will do fine, if your gonna rev up high, get the rod bearings that have a bit more gap, Im running a .0005 more clearance then stock on my SRT, better for higher RPMs. I believe the cranks can handle 400hp from factory, unless someone else has better input on this. With cams if you go with the 14s get better springs and retainers, also check out Comp Cams I heard their cams are really good plus they make the springs and retainers I think. Yes already having roller rocker are nice dont have to worry about a break in period for the cams just bolt in and go.

 

if u are going to go threw all that port and polish head is also a must, with a port matched intake as well. u may want to think about getting ur crank knife edged to get ur rpms up faster also. just a thought. deff go with the 8.5 pistions, i would suggest eagle rods and weisco pistions.

 

yea a knife edge would work but a full balance would be best with the edge put on it. CP make some really nice ones and only weight 355grams ultra light weight. X2 on the port and polish or cnc ported, worth the money, if you get the intake, head and exhasut manifold all port matched, with the exit side opened up too, plus if you can find some, get someone to cut off the 2.5 elbow on the manifold and weld in a 3inch, way better.