Yes but trans and engine problems can mask themselves. If you have a temperature sensor going out at a specific temp or partial shorting you can have random issues that show up when an action occurs. Thus do not count out the engine as a possible cause. Idle air bypass sticking slightly when cold is a possibility.

 

Ok, once again. If it was a sensor on the transmission or on the engine it would throw a code. If it was the IAC sticking yhe'd have a code 25 in memory.

25 Idle air control motor circuits, target idle not reached (+/- 200),vacuum leak found.

If it was the nuetral safety switch he'd have a code in memory.

37 Torque converter clutch solenoid CKT or park/neutral switch failure.

A bad sensor on the engine will not affect the transmission since the two are not directly linked aside from the output shaft of the tranny mating with the flexplate of the engine.

The transmission will not throw any other codes aside from the code 37 since there are no real sensors attatched to the transmission that are monitored by the PCM.

As he stated above, when he puts it into gear it shakes and acts as though it wants to stall out. Which, is generally a transmsission issue.

That however isn't to say that if he were having an issue with the IAC it wouldn't shake and want to stall but he'd have a code telling him there is a problem with the IAC.

So, again. He's got a transmission problem.

Now, it could very well be that it just needs to be serviced.

tditood, does the transmission whine at all in any gear including park? If so, it could be you just need to service it. Go ahead and check the fluid level, if the dipstick is dry you've probably cooked something inside the transmission. If its low and you fill it up and the whine stops then you are fine but I'd still drop the pan and service it.

When you have the pan off check the magnet. If there are small metal shvings on it, and I do mean small...they'll be very fine shavings. You'll be alright. But if the magnet has visible pieces of metal then you've got a problem.

If you've got some mecahnical prowess and aren't afraid to take the transmsission apart you can do this yourself. If you do decide to take it to a shop thats fine but be prepared to pay a lot to have the tranny worked on.









<===Has a semi-built race ATX and has been working on ATX's for about 5 years. I've also got a rebuild slated for when I move in which the tranny will get a full-blown race rebuild with larger drums, clutchpacks, 1.22 turbo transfer gears, everything in the case will be replaced. Oh yeah, I do my own work.

 

Ahh it just has to throw a code......

Yeah I wish it were always that easy!!! Then we would never need a Chrysler DRB again!!! Yahhoo wee for computers.

Yeah that is why my FORD manuals ALL had sections for problems with NO CODES!!!!! Symptom problems. That is where you go in and check for sensor data and verify it to what is expected and accuracy.

The few codes you get from the key or even the hundreds from a DRB or SnapOn scan tool still DO NOT catch everything and that is when a real technician earns his(or her) keep!!!

So once again yes try the basics and a service is a good idea, also try letting it warm up for several minutes (registered heat in colant) and see if problem goes away. All good things to know for a Tecnician going in after a problem that does not through a code. And no that does not mean a sensor is not at fault. Some faults require continous problem to occur for more than five seconds, or more than one cycle, etc.. So do not think no codes it MUST be mechanical. Not necessarily.

 

You are missing my point.

A Neon's transmission is not monitored by the computer aside from the nuetral safety switch and the torque converter clutch solenoid. So, 99% of the time when you've got a whine or miss shifts or it doesn't shift correctly or it's just acting weird its going to be mechanical.

I'm also aware taht scan tools and CEL's don't catch everything. If they did then there would be no need for mechanics. What I'm saying is that if there was a code it gives him a place to start but since there is no code, its a little harder to diagnose which is why I earlier suggested to service it before. I see where you are coming from on engine related problems affecting the transmsission but 9 times out of 10 it just doesn't happen on a Neon that way.

Which is why I'm so adament on it being a tranny issue because I've been screwing around on Neon ATXs for quite a while when most people swap to an MTX so I've kind of learned over the years what to look for and learn all of its little quirks. It might not be a tranny problem, but it'd be worth it to start there if anything just to service it if it hasn't been serviced in a long time. Besides, it also gives him a chnace to learn about the ATX a little.

I'm not trying to discredit you in the least. I'm just saying that the odds of it being a sensor problem are pretty slim. Thats all.

 

automatic transmissions are confusing and scary. they're one of the few mechanical dealies I have trouble understanding.