Water pump locked up! Chaos!
#11
Thanks bro. I started to take it apart and so far i got the intake and exhaust manifold off. only took me about an hour. The thing that i am dreading is the cam gear pulley/belt because it is such a tight space. I think thats about all im going to do today, but will probly tackle the rest tomorrow morning. I wish i could make a write up, but my digital camera is broken and cell phone pics just wont suffice.
This car has been sitting for so long i decided i should just work on it out of pure boredom. It belongs to my mom, but she has since gotten a new Hyundai and couldnt wait around for this one to get fixed. It has been very dependable and i would always enjoy driving it around when i could. I remember cruising around and racing little civics and accords and seeing the look on their faces when they just got beat by and auto neon!! haha
I own a Nissan NX2000 myself but would do all the routine maintanence work to all of our cars so i am somewhat familiar with this car already.
Thanks for all the help...I'll keep you updated.
This car has been sitting for so long i decided i should just work on it out of pure boredom. It belongs to my mom, but she has since gotten a new Hyundai and couldnt wait around for this one to get fixed. It has been very dependable and i would always enjoy driving it around when i could. I remember cruising around and racing little civics and accords and seeing the look on their faces when they just got beat by and auto neon!! haha
I own a Nissan NX2000 myself but would do all the routine maintanence work to all of our cars so i am somewhat familiar with this car already.
Thanks for all the help...I'll keep you updated.
#12
hey hey.... yes man, the great thing about OHC if your timing belt breaks, it means the pistons are still moving but your valves have stopped, depending in what cycle it is in, you have open valves and closed valves, so when your pistons go up, the valves that are still open, it connects and bends them.... you dont really have to have a new head, you can replace your valves and if your going to do that, may as well get new seals and springs too.. ITs rough changing them tho if you dont have the right tools btw. your pistons should be fine tho.. valves are alot weaker than your pistons are, but while you have your head off i would check them just in case... check for nicks in the top of your pistons, which, small nicks wont matter, you need to look for cracks and holes... or even busted pistons... but yet i still think your pistons will be fine unless the stems of your valves have poked through one of your pistons, which then will me no compression...
K, so whatever you do, get a new head or new valves, your water pump did lock up, you need to figure out what caused it to lock up, did you have bearings go out? did one of the blades on the impeller break off and get stuck... Remember if it broke, then there will be peices, and you need to find out if the peices are inside your engine... just for saftey reasons man, flush your coolant system for any metal shards or bearing ***** so it doesnt happen again...
after that you should be good to go man
good luck
K, so whatever you do, get a new head or new valves, your water pump did lock up, you need to figure out what caused it to lock up, did you have bearings go out? did one of the blades on the impeller break off and get stuck... Remember if it broke, then there will be peices, and you need to find out if the peices are inside your engine... just for saftey reasons man, flush your coolant system for any metal shards or bearing ***** so it doesnt happen again...
after that you should be good to go man
good luck
#13
Thanks for all your help. I looked for an R/T head but couldnt find one worthy to run my car. I got a head off of a 1995 neon sohc form the junkyard. It looked really clean so i bought it. Will this work? I noticed the cam position sensor is a little different and that the 2000 CPS wont fit on the 1995 head. Any suggestions?
#16
I went straight to the FSM and found this-
Use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts in the following order:
Tighten all center bolts to 34 Nm (25 ft.-lbs.).
Tighten the four corner bolts to 27 Nm (20 ft.-lbs.).
Tighten all center bolts to 68 Nm (50 ft.-lbs.).
Tighten the four corner bolts to 47 Nm (35 ft.-lbs.).
Retighten all bolts a second time to the same specifications in step 4 to double-check torque.
Finish by tightening all bolts an additional 1/4 turn.
#18
My bad your installing a 1st gen head i gave you the specs for a 00-05. But the specs you have are for a multi-layer steel headgasket. You know if your gonna get pissy when someone tries to help you then don't come here and ask for help. My source is good it's you thats a bad source cuz i shouldn't have to read the whole damn thing to figure out that your not installing a 00-05 head then my source would have been 100% right. I use mitchell ondemand by the way and my vo-tech and college use it. GOOD LUCK.
#19
accually i got a haynes manual for a first generation, and it says the exact same thing tighten the bolts to 25 ft lbs, then tighten them to 50 ft lbs, then tighten the 50 ft lbs again, then tighten them another quarter....
i dont know where you got your info, because im pretty sure it would be pointless to tighen your outter bolts looser than your center bolts......... not to mention the blocks and heads are practically the same.... You wont break anything, cause i just used the haynes manual that is made for 95-99 for the torque specs on my 2000 model
i dont know where you got your info, because im pretty sure it would be pointless to tighen your outter bolts looser than your center bolts......... not to mention the blocks and heads are practically the same.... You wont break anything, cause i just used the haynes manual that is made for 95-99 for the torque specs on my 2000 model