Will the srt-4 clutch fit in a 00' neon?
Record Breaker
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,216
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From: Baltimore, Maryland
This is a very unclear post. Do you not think you can get a transmission rebuilt for less than the cost of buying an srt mtx? Well I call your bluff. There is a guy in Utah doing the rebuild for $200 plus the cost of shipping. So, can you find a like new srt trans for about $300?
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Professional
Joined: Dec 2006
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This is a very unclear post. Do you not think you can get a transmission rebuilt for less than the cost of buying an srt mtx? Well I call your bluff. There is a guy in Utah doing the rebuild for $200 plus the cost of shipping. So, can you find a like new srt trans for about $300?
Record Breaker
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 1,216
Likes: 0
From: Baltimore, Maryland
Coped from other board:
I am now rebuilding manual trannies for the .org members. All prices are without shipping. Shipping for our tranny runs from $75-100 depending on your location from me. I will only take 3 trannies at a time due to this not being my full time job. Turn around will be 2-3 weeks on rebuilds if all the parts are here before I begin. The limit of 3 is also since so many people have been screwed over the years by people who overpromised and underdelivered. This will keep me from being buried and falling behind and keep everyone from feeling like I had to rush their tranny. I prefer to do it once, do it right.
I will offer a 3 month unlimited mile warranty on labor if I fully rebuild the tranny with fresh parts and you use either mobil 1 high mileage 10w30 or 40(the only non racing only with all the correct additives and modifiers), redline, royal purple or another quality racing oil. If you have to use amsoil or pennzoil make sure it has a SL rating and contains ZDP at least at 16000ppm.
I will not warranty if it has atf+4 or gear oil as either should never be used in a performance NVT/G 350 tranny. ATF+4 was a swap for cost and time while building the neon and should never be used except for mild driving in unmodified cars. Serious.
I will not warranty if you do long burnouts for no reason or abuse the tranny. Breakage of gears, shafts or diffs will not be covered unless I messed up. In other words, If you put 300hp into a stock tranny and do nothing except a rebuild, and then break it, its you own fault. With that much power we need to do upgrades wherever possible.
I take pay-pal or cashiers check/money order. I prefer paypal since we are both protected then. I will take pictures while working and e-mail them to you so you can see your tranny. When I return ship it I will e-mail you the tracking number.
My services are:
Labor for a standard rebuild will be $200. This will include me rebuilding with any and all the parts you send me or any new diffs installed. If using a stock diff I will also put in diff pin retainers. Rebuild parts other than the diff pins and diff spacers are extra but I can source them if needed. This also includes if you have me swap output shafts to a different final drive. I will include a magnetic drain plug if you don't already have one.
Installing a diff without a rebuild will be $75
Welding the selectors and machining them down will be $100.
Shifter arm mod: Shorten the shifter arm and remove the dampener will be $30 This results in a shorter shift without a STS added.
Chamfering and crossdrilling the input and output shafts for increased oiling will be $150. I have to outsource the drilling to a machine shop.
Pro shifted synchro sets where every other synchro gear is removed for quicker high rpm shifting will be $150. Not for daily drivers, purpose built drag trannies only.
Painting the case will be $40 with paint, any color you want. I like hightemp clear myself.
Powder coating the case will be $150.
Shipping the parts out to get coated by swaintech will run about $35 in shipping and around $300 for the entire trans internals. I.e. All gears, the input and output shafts and the ring gear.
Cable actuated reverse gear. Total positive lock out for NHRA specs for 9.5 second and faster cars $150.
Tranny pre-oilers. This will dump oil down both shafts and all across the diff before you light it up in the water box. Decreases wear and improves oiling. Pump has a life of about 1000hrs before it needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Only for 24 hour endurance and ultra hardcore drag racing.
$500 Includes a electric pump, resevoir and an lines to facilitate the oiling.
I suggest the quaife for daily driving, road racing, drag racing up to 350-400hp and autocross, actually pretty much anything.
Retro-Fit for daily driver/drag and rally racing.
And finally for the ultimate drag setup: Tim Kish's spool, for purpose built drag trannies only.
I've been pm'd a few times about gear ratios and what should I use, so I made a chart with redline mph and next gear rpm if you speed shift it.
Rev in will raise by 500rpms for 8k shifts and drop by 500rpms for 7k shifts.
Cases:
For maximum strength, I suggest the second gen back half with the 99 bellhousing side, if using a cable actuated clutch. The 99 bellhousing has the most webs for strength as does the second gen back half. The upside is the 2nd gen section has upgraded rear bearings as well. Downside is both these case halfs are heavier than normal. The 2nd gen bellhousing is also very stout so if you wish to switch to hydraulic it is a good case all around. The 99-up bellhousings also increase oil capacity to almost 3 quarts for better cooling and longevity.
Shifters:
Both I and my south american source for parts both believe Maddog's STS to be the superior product. Mainly since he has a positive stop setup or rod brake enginered into it. This shifter plus a shifter arm mod will drastically improve and shorten your shifting. The positive stop also keeps you from overshifting the tranny and wearing the selectors down prematurely.
Parts I CAN get:
My South american source can get me 3 different rebuild sets as of right now they are:
5 available as of 2/10/09
Kit 1:
1,2,3,4,5,and reverse fiberide synchros; 6 revised synchro keys and ***** with springs; input shaft's oil pump and plastic bushings at rear of shafts for oil retention.
Dealer cost(and they can't get the 1-2 synchros either!) is $292.
$180+shipping
Kit 2:
New fully assembled shift rails.
Dealer cost is $220 unassembled
$130+shipping
Kit 3:
2 axle seals; 2 shifter seals; all new shaft needle bearings for entire trans(they go under the synchros and gears); new roll pins for shifters; new snap rings for input and output shafts.
Dealer cost is $120
$55+shipping
Total dealer cost is $632
All 3 for $365+shipping
He does not have: rear bearings, input shaft bearing, output shaft caged bearing, or diff bearings. You can either get them from your dealer, discounted oem moparparts.com, or I can source them here if needed.
PM or e-mail me
Dave McDaniel
drakito @ msn.com
435-seven six four-6130 after 7 pm MST
2708 South Main Nibley, UT
p.s. Drakito is spanglish for Little dragon
I am now rebuilding manual trannies for the .org members. All prices are without shipping. Shipping for our tranny runs from $75-100 depending on your location from me. I will only take 3 trannies at a time due to this not being my full time job. Turn around will be 2-3 weeks on rebuilds if all the parts are here before I begin. The limit of 3 is also since so many people have been screwed over the years by people who overpromised and underdelivered. This will keep me from being buried and falling behind and keep everyone from feeling like I had to rush their tranny. I prefer to do it once, do it right.
I will offer a 3 month unlimited mile warranty on labor if I fully rebuild the tranny with fresh parts and you use either mobil 1 high mileage 10w30 or 40(the only non racing only with all the correct additives and modifiers), redline, royal purple or another quality racing oil. If you have to use amsoil or pennzoil make sure it has a SL rating and contains ZDP at least at 16000ppm.
I will not warranty if it has atf+4 or gear oil as either should never be used in a performance NVT/G 350 tranny. ATF+4 was a swap for cost and time while building the neon and should never be used except for mild driving in unmodified cars. Serious.
I will not warranty if you do long burnouts for no reason or abuse the tranny. Breakage of gears, shafts or diffs will not be covered unless I messed up. In other words, If you put 300hp into a stock tranny and do nothing except a rebuild, and then break it, its you own fault. With that much power we need to do upgrades wherever possible.
I take pay-pal or cashiers check/money order. I prefer paypal since we are both protected then. I will take pictures while working and e-mail them to you so you can see your tranny. When I return ship it I will e-mail you the tracking number.
My services are:
Labor for a standard rebuild will be $200. This will include me rebuilding with any and all the parts you send me or any new diffs installed. If using a stock diff I will also put in diff pin retainers. Rebuild parts other than the diff pins and diff spacers are extra but I can source them if needed. This also includes if you have me swap output shafts to a different final drive. I will include a magnetic drain plug if you don't already have one.
Installing a diff without a rebuild will be $75
Welding the selectors and machining them down will be $100.
Shifter arm mod: Shorten the shifter arm and remove the dampener will be $30 This results in a shorter shift without a STS added.
Chamfering and crossdrilling the input and output shafts for increased oiling will be $150. I have to outsource the drilling to a machine shop.
Pro shifted synchro sets where every other synchro gear is removed for quicker high rpm shifting will be $150. Not for daily drivers, purpose built drag trannies only.
Painting the case will be $40 with paint, any color you want. I like hightemp clear myself.
Powder coating the case will be $150.
Shipping the parts out to get coated by swaintech will run about $35 in shipping and around $300 for the entire trans internals. I.e. All gears, the input and output shafts and the ring gear.
Cable actuated reverse gear. Total positive lock out for NHRA specs for 9.5 second and faster cars $150.
Tranny pre-oilers. This will dump oil down both shafts and all across the diff before you light it up in the water box. Decreases wear and improves oiling. Pump has a life of about 1000hrs before it needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Only for 24 hour endurance and ultra hardcore drag racing.
$500 Includes a electric pump, resevoir and an lines to facilitate the oiling.
I suggest the quaife for daily driving, road racing, drag racing up to 350-400hp and autocross, actually pretty much anything.
Retro-Fit for daily driver/drag and rally racing.
And finally for the ultimate drag setup: Tim Kish's spool, for purpose built drag trannies only.
I've been pm'd a few times about gear ratios and what should I use, so I made a chart with redline mph and next gear rpm if you speed shift it.
Rev in will raise by 500rpms for 8k shifts and drop by 500rpms for 7k shifts.
Cases:
For maximum strength, I suggest the second gen back half with the 99 bellhousing side, if using a cable actuated clutch. The 99 bellhousing has the most webs for strength as does the second gen back half. The upside is the 2nd gen section has upgraded rear bearings as well. Downside is both these case halfs are heavier than normal. The 2nd gen bellhousing is also very stout so if you wish to switch to hydraulic it is a good case all around. The 99-up bellhousings also increase oil capacity to almost 3 quarts for better cooling and longevity.
Shifters:
Both I and my south american source for parts both believe Maddog's STS to be the superior product. Mainly since he has a positive stop setup or rod brake enginered into it. This shifter plus a shifter arm mod will drastically improve and shorten your shifting. The positive stop also keeps you from overshifting the tranny and wearing the selectors down prematurely.
Parts I CAN get:
My South american source can get me 3 different rebuild sets as of right now they are:
5 available as of 2/10/09
Kit 1:
1,2,3,4,5,and reverse fiberide synchros; 6 revised synchro keys and ***** with springs; input shaft's oil pump and plastic bushings at rear of shafts for oil retention.
Dealer cost(and they can't get the 1-2 synchros either!) is $292.
$180+shipping
Kit 2:
New fully assembled shift rails.
Dealer cost is $220 unassembled
$130+shipping
Kit 3:
2 axle seals; 2 shifter seals; all new shaft needle bearings for entire trans(they go under the synchros and gears); new roll pins for shifters; new snap rings for input and output shafts.
Dealer cost is $120
$55+shipping
Total dealer cost is $632
All 3 for $365+shipping
He does not have: rear bearings, input shaft bearing, output shaft caged bearing, or diff bearings. You can either get them from your dealer, discounted oem moparparts.com, or I can source them here if needed.
PM or e-mail me
Dave McDaniel
drakito @ msn.com
435-seven six four-6130 after 7 pm MST
2708 South Main Nibley, UT
p.s. Drakito is spanglish for Little dragon
Section Moderator
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 5,584
Likes: 7
From: Northern California
I will offer a 3 month unlimited mile warranty on labor if I fully rebuild the tranny with fresh parts and you use either mobil 1 high mileage 10w30 or 40(the only non racing only with all the correct additives and modifiers), redline, royal purple or another quality racing oil. If you have to use amsoil or pennzoil make sure it has a SL rating and contains ZDP at least at 16000ppm
Still, a great dang price. Wish the ATX's were that cheap to rebuild!
Last edited by darthroush; May 20, 2009 at 12:16 PM. Reason: Grammar
Section Moderator
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 5,584
Likes: 7
From: Northern California
Last edited by darthroush; May 20, 2009 at 10:39 PM. Reason: Added ZDDP's full name
All Star
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 815
Likes: 0
From: Lima, OH
The Brad Penn® Penn Grade 1® High Performance Oils contain the higher level of anti-wear (ZDDP – zinc dialkyldithiophosphate) and enhanced film strength so critical to proper high performance engine protection. The Penn-Grade 1® oils “typical” 1,500 ppm Zinc (Zn) and 1340-1400 ppm Phosphorus (P) content provide the needed anti-wear protection to critical engine parts, such as piston/cylinder walls, roller cams under heavy valve spring pressure and especially those that employ a solid “flat tappet” type system. As important as the chemistry is to the Penn-Grade 1® oils, it is by no means the whole story. The unique base oil cut used to refine the Penn-Grade 1® High Performance Oils maintain a tremendous affinity to metal surfaces. This naturally occurring “metal wetting” characteristic enables the oil to stay put on your highly stressed engines and makes the Penn-Grade 1® High Performance Oil resist slinging for an extended period of time. Also, rest assured in knowing that the Penn-Grade 1® High Performance Oils are 100% Made in the USA.
Do you see the number no neither do i. But if we are running it in the hemi cars purpose built drag cars and well known in the drag racing world i'm pretty sure it meets or exceeds the 1600 zddp. It just says it contains higher level of zddp. Like stated before i gave the two parts that provide the anti-wear protection i just don't know the formula or i'd do it and tell ya what the zddp is.
Do you see the number no neither do i. But if we are running it in the hemi cars purpose built drag cars and well known in the drag racing world i'm pretty sure it meets or exceeds the 1600 zddp. It just says it contains higher level of zddp. Like stated before i gave the two parts that provide the anti-wear protection i just don't know the formula or i'd do it and tell ya what the zddp is.
Section Moderator
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 5,584
Likes: 7
From: Northern California
What number are you talking about? ZDDP is ZINC. Therefore, Zinc, or ZDDP, whichever you would like to call it, is 1,500ppm for the oil you are talking about. Again, since you apparently know nothing about it, I wouldn't be making recommendations. I see the number, but you don't evidently. You're welcome. There is no "formula" to find whatever it is you are talking about. It is stated.
As for the higher levels, I can simply tell just by the numbers. I don't need purposefully-built Hemi drag cars to tell me that. Just because it is used in the drag racing world (or any oil for that matter, racing or not), DOES NOT mean that it automatically meets or exceeds the 1,600ppm of ZDDP that is required for his warranty. In fact, once more, the oil you are recommending only has 1,500ppm of ZDDP. You're warranty would be void. The "street" version of Valvoline VR-1 is used in the drag racing world too. Does that mean it, according to you, meets the 1,600ppm requirement? Go ahead and say yes. You are wrong.
Note what I posted about flat tappet engines (I left out roller engines, but same principle and it is noted by Brad Penn as well) and the higher levels of ZDDP. The same thing that you just copied and pasted from............Brad Penn.
All of this being said, Brad Penn, from actual testing is a great oil. It just would not meet this guy's requirement for the warranty he is offering. EDIT: Just went and looked at the BP site. TBN is pretty dang decent too! It would probably be a good 6,000 mile or so oil.
As for the higher levels, I can simply tell just by the numbers. I don't need purposefully-built Hemi drag cars to tell me that. Just because it is used in the drag racing world (or any oil for that matter, racing or not), DOES NOT mean that it automatically meets or exceeds the 1,600ppm of ZDDP that is required for his warranty. In fact, once more, the oil you are recommending only has 1,500ppm of ZDDP. You're warranty would be void. The "street" version of Valvoline VR-1 is used in the drag racing world too. Does that mean it, according to you, meets the 1,600ppm requirement? Go ahead and say yes. You are wrong.
Note what I posted about flat tappet engines (I left out roller engines, but same principle and it is noted by Brad Penn as well) and the higher levels of ZDDP. The same thing that you just copied and pasted from............Brad Penn.
All of this being said, Brad Penn, from actual testing is a great oil. It just would not meet this guy's requirement for the warranty he is offering. EDIT: Just went and looked at the BP site. TBN is pretty dang decent too! It would probably be a good 6,000 mile or so oil.
Last edited by darthroush; May 21, 2009 at 02:53 AM.
All Star
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 815
Likes: 0
From: Lima, OH
What number are you talking about? ZDDP is ZINC. Therefore, Zinc, or ZDDP, whichever you would like to call it, is 1,500ppm for the oil you are talking about. Again, since you apparently know nothing about it, I wouldn't be making recommendations. I see the number, but you don't evidently. You're welcome. There is no "formula" to find whatever it is you are talking about. It is stated.
As for the higher levels, I can simply tell just by the numbers. I don't need purposefully-built Hemi drag cars to tell me that. Just because it is used in the drag racing world (or any oil for that matter, racing or not), DOES NOT mean that it automatically meets or exceeds the 1,600ppm of ZDDP that is required for his warranty. In fact, once more, the oil you are recommending only has 1,500ppm of ZDDP. You're warranty would be void. The "street" version of Valvoline VR-1 is used in the drag racing world too. Does that mean it, according to you, meets the 1,600ppm requirement? Go ahead and say yes. You are wrong.
Note what I posted about flat tappet engines (I left out roller engines, but same principle and it is noted by Brad Penn as well) and the higher levels of ZDDP. The same thing that you just copied and pasted from............Brad Penn.
All of this being said, Brad Penn, from actual testing is a great oil. It just would not meet this guy's requirement for the warranty he is offering. EDIT: Just went and looked at the BP site. TBN is pretty dang decent too! It would probably be a good 6,000 mile or so oil.
As for the higher levels, I can simply tell just by the numbers. I don't need purposefully-built Hemi drag cars to tell me that. Just because it is used in the drag racing world (or any oil for that matter, racing or not), DOES NOT mean that it automatically meets or exceeds the 1,600ppm of ZDDP that is required for his warranty. In fact, once more, the oil you are recommending only has 1,500ppm of ZDDP. You're warranty would be void. The "street" version of Valvoline VR-1 is used in the drag racing world too. Does that mean it, according to you, meets the 1,600ppm requirement? Go ahead and say yes. You are wrong.
Note what I posted about flat tappet engines (I left out roller engines, but same principle and it is noted by Brad Penn as well) and the higher levels of ZDDP. The same thing that you just copied and pasted from............Brad Penn.
All of this being said, Brad Penn, from actual testing is a great oil. It just would not meet this guy's requirement for the warranty he is offering. EDIT: Just went and looked at the BP site. TBN is pretty dang decent too! It would probably be a good 6,000 mile or so oil.