Squeaky rear brakes
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From: Four Corners of AZ
Squeaky rear brakes
Recently, I've been plagued with the squeaky rear brakes and when I checked them, there seems to be no wear to the metal. I heard most neons tend to do this. Anybody know of a remedy??? (sometimes it gets embarassing, due to the high pitch noise) I would like to switch to a rear disc, rather than the rear drum. Thank you, any suggestions will be helpful.
This is for 04 SXT Dodge Neon-Stock...
This is for 04 SXT Dodge Neon-Stock...
Last edited by srt4rez; Aug 4, 2009 at 12:49 PM.
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I had a squeaky noise coming from what I thought was the rear brakes too, took it in and turned out to be that the front rotors were close to being bad and needing replaced.. They were replaced problem solved, check your front rotors.. then check back in and tell me the results..
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Thanks for the suggestions guys, I'll check it out. Hey darthroush, notice that you have a 1986 Ford f-150. Is it a 302 with a fuel injected? That's what I have too. I have a question about the truck, even though this is not a ford forum. I think, when mines gets hot, it shuts off and then restarts normally when it cools off. Have you ever had that problem? Let me know of the situation.
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My truck has the 4BBL 5.8L 351W HO engine actually 
The 86 Bronco however has the FI 302. I've never had that problem, but have heard of it before. Let me see if I can try and find out what it was later. 
The 86 Bronco however has the FI 302. I've never had that problem, but have heard of it before. Let me see if I can try and find out what it was later.
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OK, got some things from a few places. This first one is what I hear more frequently, but doesn't mean that it is the fix.
In our case, the coil itself.
From someone else in that same thread:
From a different thread:
I will take a look around again later and see if I can find more, but it's a start I suppose.
check for spark when the car shuts down. I'm willing to bet it doesn't have it. If it doesn't I'd look towards the ignition module, or the coil pack.
From someone else in that same thread:
Also read elsewhere that you can't check for spark when this happens since a CPS failure apparently shuts down the ignition system.
All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.
Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.
These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.
1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.
2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.
3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.
Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.
Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.
These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.
1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.
2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.
3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.
Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
Last edited by darthroush; Aug 11, 2009 at 02:55 PM.