Edit: Must have missed a few posts explaining why an alignment is needed.

GDI my mechanic better know Dodge Neons.. not in the mood for continual vibration after spending so much to have top, bottom, and tranny mounts replaced (in the near future).

 

I have not changed any mounts as of yet, I have an se so it sucks having no idea what I am idleing at.

 

Don't know if I missed it but what year Dodge Neons does the 119mm measurement apply to?

I have a 2001 Dodge Neon. I replaced the top, middle, and bottom motor mounts. Now I have a bad vibration I never had before even though the old mounts were shot (top and bottom mounts rubber was completely severed, old center mount still looked good). I almost wish I had never done it cause I have way more vibration with the new mounts than I did with the old worn out ones. The only mount I haven't replaced is the transmission mount. The vibration is when putting the car in gear, and driving (though less at driving). In gear (at stand still) I can actually see the steering wheel vibrating. Completely sucks, make me want to junk this thing.

Anyway after finding and reading this thread I took the measurement and it was around 116mm. I did as instructed here and re-adjusted it to 119mm. The procedure was actually not too hard. Didn't even have to jack up the car to remove pencil strut and loosen bottom mount bolt. Engine moved easier than I expected. After tightening everything it was still 119mm so nothing slipped. Vibration is still there although it seems to be a little less.

Comments and/or suggestions?

 

There's a lot of different posts on the forum about the vibration and just as many opinions. I'm curious what kind of mounts you used. I've found that the aftermarket mounts, Anchor in particular, have super hard rubber inserts that transmit vibration through the chassis rather than absorb the vibration. Depending on what kind of mounts you used, if your old center mount was good, I would re-install it. I know it's a lot of work, but the OEM mount is filled with oil and most of the aftermarket ones ar not.

 

I got mine at Oreilleys. Had a lifetime guarantee.

Edit:

I just checked Oreilleys website and looks like Anchor is the ones they sell. Oreilly usually has good stuff. Crap, looks like I'm stuck with what I got. I don't even have the old center mount anymore.

 

My brothers 05 vibrates bad at idle. Its a base model 2.0l. If you put it in neutral it almost stops all vibrations. His engine mounts were done from a shop. No idea if they were adjusted correctly. Seeing as it almost stops in neutral could it be bad tranny mounts? I have yet to check anything so I'm just asking for advice first.

 

Bought a very cheap but high mileage 02 Dodge / Chrysler neon but came with it an annoying and embarrassing vibrations/rattles of steering wheel, dash board, antenna, etc. worst when AC / heater, defogger turned on. Did some basic tune-up and vibrations were minimized if not gone.

First, checked the blow-by by opening the oil cap at idle and noticed an excessive smoke and air coming out even without thumb plugging the pcv valve. This maybe due to worn out rings or something and for sure compressions on the cylinders are not the same, this must be one root source of the vibration. Don't want to throw money for repair or waste time to dug deeper.

Changed oil, changed spark plugs and wires, cleaned fuel injectors (found two injectors partly clogged), cleaned PVC valve, cleaned IAC valve while energized as to reach the inner side, made big holes on the air filter for high air flow then wrapped with my wife's stocking, finally reset the PCM. Also noticed improvised rubber inserts on the two torque struts so I removed them and adjusted the struts to where the engine has a play as to isolate the engine vibration from the chassis. Over all the result and performance put smile on my face

 

I haven't heard of worn rings causing vibrations in a car, but you are correct in that you'd have to dig deep to fix that kind of a problem.

Poking "big" holes in your air filter was...creative. The stock air intake system, including a regular paper filter without "big" holes added, flows more air than the engine needs as is. All you really did was create a way for more dirt to get into your engine. Might spend $15 on a new filter to fix your fix.

Torque struts inserts do indeed add some vibration to the car, so removing them would help. They are often added to help prolong the life of the torque struts. You just have to decide what's best for you.

Glad to hear you are enjoying the car though!

 

Hi folks,
I replaced ALL the mounts on my '05 Neon SXT about 8 months ago. The transmission mount and the right-hand engine mounts were a BEAR to swap out. The upper and lower torque struts were so dang easy. Everything seemed to be just fine, and I THOUGHT I had the alignment of the struts done (at least according to the Heyes manual), but now the vibration is back and my upper torque strut is broke AGAIN. I've gotta get a photo posted here, the alignment is now visually way off.
I got these mounts from RockAuto, and they are Anchor brand. Don't think they have a warrentee. What brand SHOULD I get that will last? And...do I need to check the other mounts for damage now too?

Thanks!
Zimbar

 

I've flipped quite a few Neon's and I learned a long time ago that buying any engine mounts/torque struts other than OEM is a waste of money. I know the MOPAR parts are a lot more expensive, but in this case it's the only way to go. I noticed that Rockauto is starting to carry some MOPAR brand parts.