Thanks for the DIY. I'm going to go over it with my buddy and make sure he thinks we'll have any necessary equipment. I'm also probably going to pick up a new thermostat as well as a new fuel filter (if I can figure out where they're at and what filter is correct to buy) and maybe also some of the engine dampener pieces. The car has 95k on it and I just picked it up (600miles ago) and I want to make sure I get any maintenance out of the way asap.

Darth, if you happen to have any info on the fuel filter (I searched but no 2nd gen neons came up, but I also am having a hell of a time w/the search engine on this site) I'd appreciate it. I'm probably going to pick up that t-belt kit and then also a t-stat (have to find that still) and then try to figure out what motor mounts/dampeners are likely to need replaced already. Hopefully if I cover all of that I'll be good for 100k Thanks again for your help everyone!

 

The fuel filter was ALWAYS said to be non-serviceable and that you had to buy the $200 assembly to change it. Someone on here (Ghost Neon was it) said that you can indeed change just the filter. I looked it up in a Dodge parts catalog, and indeed there is just the filter element. It is a dealer only part and you have to drop the gas tank to change it. If the car is running fine, I'd just leave it be until a problem arises that can be pointed to a dirty/clogged fuel filter.

 

The fuel filter is in the tank and is a part of the fuel pump assembly. During this last bit of work, I changed the upper and lower torque struts (engine mounts) and the passenger side mount. However, I had a really bad vibration coming from that side - prompting the change. They were all cracked.
I have changed the water pump along with the timing belt each time, and both of the ones I changed out were doing fine, but again, if I'm there I'd rather do it. That's not a job you want to take up too often.

 

That's an odd situation. Has anyone ever tried bypassing the "stock" filter and running a separate, serviceable inline filter? If not maybe I will try to find out the part number from the dealer - 100k without changing a fuel filter is making me nervous. There's not an access point below the back seats or something to the fuel pump? The tank has to be dropped for sure?

 

Where are the upper and lower tq struts located? I have just over 95k on the car I just picked up and I keep noticing a bit of a weird "jolt" sometimes whenever I'm at like 2200rpms and go from decel into accel. If that makes any sense? Does anyone ever do the 3m windo weld urethane in stock mounts?

I'm pretty sure I'm going to try to knock out all of this maintenance stuff with the t-belt. Serp belt, t-belt, t-stat, tq struts, tensioner, bracket, fuel filter?, and then maybe doing some seafoam and injector cleaner. Car makes 180psi (+/- like 4psi) across all cylinders, so I want to keep it strong and reliable

 

Don't forget the water pump... and if you're there you might want to go ahead and change the right side engine mount.
The upper torque strut attaches to the strut tower (passenger side) from the front of the motor. The lower torque strut I believe attaches to the cross member from just below the ac pump.
Best advice I can give is get a haynes manual or factory service manual. It will have good pictures and info on how to adjust everything once it is all back together.

 

I've replace 2 timing belts in the past year ... one for my son's car and another for a friend. On the last job, I changed all the cooling system hoses too, since we are in AZ (very hot)

Question #1. Yes follow the Chrysler recommended time change for the belt. It may look fine, but the do stretch over time.

#2. I changed both because the book said to.

Now for the parts. I used Gates parts from Checker. I've never had issues with them in the past. Due to the pain in the neck it is to get to the belt change the following parts:

Timing belt
Timing belt tensioner
Water pump (get a good w/ lifetime warranty)
Right engine mount (not the upper and lower torque struts, but change those if they are broken)
Alternator belt
Power steering/AC compressor belt & idler pulley

The reason I added the right engine mount? I change the belt on my sons car and didn't change the engine mount (only the torque struts). About 3 month's later the car developed a nasty dash board buzz that was caused by the broken right engine mount. Better to do it now while you're in there!

 

Dash buzz/vibration = engine mount fail. Replace it and save yourself the trouble.

 

* fuel Filter
* Timing Belt, Tensioner, Bracket, Waterpump, etc... (BOLTS?)
* access belt
* thermostat
* engine Dampeners
* right motor mount
* access tensioner
* cabin filter
* cam seal
* front main seal

Am I missing any of the big stuff? I'd like to buy everything and have it all ready just in case. Is there a place to buy new bolts for the motor mounts/dampeners, the tensioner, etc...? I'm going to work on finding out all of the necessary tq specs and such - I'm hoping to not have to buy a Haynes. I may decide to go as far as to make a little DIY on the process.

 

Sorry to almost be nearly spamming in this thread now, but I was also wondering, what's the news on transmission fluids for the manual trans? I searched and I'm not sure if I was reading about auto or manual trans in some instances, but I read there's no drain plug or fill plug? I also couldn't find anything about what fluid is best (thinking Redline or something like that). Any information on that would also be great . Just trying to get it all squared away! Thanks again