Im sure it needs to be but thought id ask. Not sure whats actually being put back thats gonna mkae it off that much from where it was? I cant remember how alignments are done with struts and where the adjustments are done with what bolts or nuts.

 

i always believe if you replace alignment related parts, having an alignment done would just be natural.

 

Replacing the struts, yes, alignment should be done (at least checked, but it will go out as far as I know after replacing struts).

 

One other question...

How do you torque the top strut nut to 55 ft/lbs? I know the strut section above the threads is squared for a wrench to hold it but once the socket is on the nut thats useless and a open end wont fit in that recessed hole so you have to use an impact gun to spin the nut off and back on and no way to tell what the torque is altho my lowest setting on gun does log nuts about 60 ft/lbs so im close.

I got them all on and installed but then realized one of the rears the nut was not tight enough and clacking around up and down against the nut. Luckily I had a small 3/8" butterfly impact gun and could get it on top of it in the trunk and tighten it.

Am I missing something here how to hold the rod tight while torquing that nut or do you guys just impact gun and call it a day?

 

i just get them tight. normal human strength tightening would net right around 60ftlbs.

 

Ok when I installed my blue struts and mopar springs I went to a tire shop and they did the alignment for me 50bucks and I used my husbands strength to make sure my struts were tight and on right. Not hard to put on with two people.

 

Yea it was rather easy just time consuming for all 4 replaced. Fronts were easy and both replaced in less than an hour. The backs were a bitch!

So im wondering how camber is adjusted with stock bolts in the struts front and rear? It looks like camber cant be adjusted at all to me with stock bolts so when you pay to get it aligned all they are actually adjusting if need be is toe and caster. Ive had this car alignment checked half a dozen times since 2002 and its always within specs on camber so I guess as long as its ok, no need to go aftermarket with a cam bolt and dogbone washer thingy.

 

No I didnt have to do anything unless I get bigger wheels like 19s or 20s .

 

Thanks for the replies! Took car on long drive in some twisties and all appears to be great. I checked camber myself in driveway and its within factory specs right on max negative border so im leaving it cause I like - camber. I run a lot of - camber on my blown Z06 so im used to getting tires every 4K miles for much better handling so its no big deal.

 

I hear ya on the 4-5K mile tire changes.