SO two weeks ago i had a p0344 code pop so i replaced the cam sensor and then the crankshaft sensor code p0016 poped up so i replaced it. I erased the codes and it does nothing so i tryed to re sync the cam and crank sensors with the drb3 but it wont let me. I then replaced the wiring and terminals for both sensors and it did nothing. I thought the timing belt might of jumped a tooth but i checked it out through the inspection hole but they are aligned with #1 at top dead center. THe crhysler tech told me to replace the belt anyways but dosent make sense to me bc the marks are aligned and the belt isnt loose. I tryed replacing the pcm but the yard i got it from gave me a junk one and its the only pcm from a yard within like 200 miles or more.I dont even know if it is the pcm but its cheaper than the belt and less work but now im stuck bc i dont want to replace the belt if its not necessary. It would help a lot if anybody could help or give input. The cart also wont let me go past 2400 rpm and it feels like the rev limiter kinda when u try to. Thanks

 

dual channel oscilloscope will answer the question about sensor output and sync

compression test will answer question about cam to crank timing.

 

I had a a snap on motis and the newest oscilliscope on it and the patterns were fine for both sensors along with the voltage.ANd it will not let me run any sync on it the code will not go away or run any kind of sync and the dealership couldnt even do it. They were the ones who told me to the timing belt.

 

with the modus on 3 channel one on cam one on crank, one on #1 plug and that'll show you if they events are occuring at the proper sequence and lined up correctly.

compression test will show timing. low but equal pressure = cam timing off.

btw was it running fine then this just came out of the blue or are you getting dumped on by someone else whom gave up.?

 

no it was out of the blue the car has 171,000 on it but this is the first thing wrong with it since i had it. But if the timing was really ****ed up the car wouldnt run fine at idle and fine all the way untill 2400rpm. It takes about three cranks to start up bc the cam sensor is trying to start it of at 180 degrees out each time it dosent start. When i couldnt take it to school bc my session was up i had Chrysler look at it and they said all the wiring and the sensors turned out to be fine.Do u think that it could be the pcm bc some times the pcm will do funny things like that instead of going totally bad.

 

Just to add to this, it is my understanding that if the engine is not warm when you do the compression test, you can get lower, but equal readings too.

 

not as much as if cam timing was off.

and you can do a wet test which will have minimal change when cam timing is off. but if you have a better idea as to what the guy can check then by all means fix it for him.

 

Well im pretty sure its not compression it runs fine at idle warm or cold and when the camshaft code set the first time and i replced it the car ran fine for one day with no engine light and then then the next day it set the cam and crank codes.

 

Noted!

 

this looks like a lot bigger problem than the internet can solve. you've done pretty much every possible repair technique without replacing the car.

just for grins, check alternator voltage and use the Modus to check for clean output signal. I had a Volvo that randomly stalled caused by bad diode in the alternator spiking signal to pcm