I went out to start the car the other night and---No start. This is the first trouble like this as long as we've had it. After trying a few things and using some starting fluid, It started, but wouldn't idle. I started it again, and it would run, but not without my foot on the gas slightly. I took it for a ride into town, and the no run at idle problem didn't go away until it was good and warm, it would die at stop signs, etc. On the return trip, it was fine. It has done this 4 times in the last 3 weeks, but not for the last week and a half. Only 227,355 miles and I thought I lost her. I'm thinking bad gas, or water in the fuel tank. Put some iso heet in the last few fill ups, and a bottle of Mopar combustion chamber cleaner-the expensive stuff, And all seems well. NO CODES THROWN, that is the annoying thing. NEW plugs, wires, o2 sensors, timing belt et.al, engine mounts, and any other pesky maintainence things that it has needed. Maybe it is because I washed it for the first time this year, I guess it just doesn't like taking a bath.

 

When is the last time you had your battery/alternator looked at?

 

New battery a couple months back. Alternator is original, but with my computerized charger at idle it puts out about 14.2. It also tested good when battery was replaced. No corrosion on terminals, or alt. connections. Besides, the first time it happened, I cranked it over for quite a while before it started, not to mention the many restarts until I was able to keep it running. Before I replaced the battery, The car was starting on 10.8 volts when cranked over.

 

It is 14.2V with a charger hooked up, and 10.8V without; or is the 10.8 while cranking? I'm trying to clarify what you wrote.

 

The OLD battery was putting out 10.8 volts when I would crank the starter and the car would still start. I replaced the battery to be safe. I tested the NEW battery and alternator, and they put out 14.2 volts at idle. The charger is only hooked up on diagnostic setting, not on a charge setting. Turn it on, connect cables to battery, and press alternator test button. Anyway, It must have been some moisture in a connection somewhere, because it hasn't done anything weird since.

 

If you replaced the battery and the problem is gone, why do you think it was some moisture somewhere? Don't you think the moisture would have dried up at some point over the course 3+ weeks?

 

I replaced the battery a month or so before the problem happened, so I don't think it has anything to do with the problem of not starting at all. I only mentioned the battery in the first place because Moparkyle asked about the battery and alternator. I think it was something to do with water somewhere that it didn't belong, because this happened following a 10" snowstorm that I had to drive thru. 1' drifts on the back roads on the way home from work, and a 2' drift that was at the end of the driveway. Nothing any worse than normal for winter by me. Besides, what else could it be, It's been 1,500 miles since the last time that it did anything. Saltwater has a way of hanging around longer than just plain rainwater. Winter salt /slush/ residue is what shorted out 3 computers on the 1999 Chevy work van. What important wires run thru the wiring harness that hangs down by the radiator support/front crossmember? These seem like they are in a bad place, and take a lot of abuse from road debris and snowdrifts.

 

If it only happens when it's wet check the plug wires and coil pack.

 

I thought you had replaced the battery after; my bad. As for what's important up there...the PCM is right up in the front of the engine bay, more towards the bottom too IIRC.

 

Should have thought of it earlier, with all of the computer problems on our Cheby. I removed the air cleaner housing and removed the plug on the computer, and found moist residue. I cleaned up the connections and smeared dielectric grease on the plug and put it back together. We shall see what happens.