I searched the forums but couldn't find what i'm looking for.
So a while back I changed my rear brake drums. Everything went fine. Rear brakes work. But since then, my e-brake doesn't work. I pulled out my center console to get access to the e-brake lever, cables, and equalizer (cable joiner). I was hoping one of the cables had just fell out of the joiner, but that wasn't the case. So I pulled off the drums to verify that the cables were still in the clip where they should be, and that the drum brake was put together correctly. I even got the new drum brake spring kit when I replaced them. So everything looked like it was working fine. Just wasnt pushing out the brake shoes when pulling the lever. Tightened the auto-adjuster, and that helped a little. Got it to where to e-brake would grab the drum, but barely enough to notice while driving. Also, once we got the self-adjusting arms tightened up and we could get some grab from the e-brake, the joiner that connects the rear parking brake cables was crooked. The passenger cable side pulls back on the joiner more than the drivers side by close to an inch. If you want a pic to help let me know. I just don't feel like pulling out my center console again unless I need to lol.
I was going to take out the back seat and check the cables via the access back there in the floor, but in the haynes manual pic I didn't see anything that would make any difference.
Opinions please! Thanks guys.

 

All I know is I hate adjusting drum brakes. I took mine in and had them adjusted for $20. Well worth it IMO.

 

Grrrr.... you know I hate going to a garage darth! lol, I swore when I fixed my ASR fuse problem I'd never go to a garage unless I absolutely had to (like in the case of my wheel alignment). You think maybe I just don't have the self-adjusting arm on the slacky side tight enough? I had it about as tight as I could get it. Maybe I should try it again with the brake lever pulled back and blocked like they show in the Haynes manual. I'll give it a shot here soon. Fixin to go the jy to replace the front splash guard that damn raccoon destroyed (along with my radiator, bumper paint and fiberglass in some areas, and one of my fog light bulbs! It was a big *** coon! Can't wait to move out of the boonies next month There's gotta be someone here who's dealt with this before!

 

Those self-adjusters don't ever really work as intended. I didn't go to a garage though. Find a tire shop.

 

have you pulled the brake while the drums were off and verify the shoes move like should? pull and release , takes 2 people. I believe the neons have leading trailing brakes in the rear but i forget , i almost never look at mine. is the adjuster the star type or the lever type that ratchets? i believe its a star adjuster. adjusting should be done as follows , dejust the adjuster all the way out and then adjust it so the drum slightly drags when spun. some like to adjust it till it hangs then back it off till it slightly drags. but it sounds like you go something backward or on wrong. if it worked prior then thats most likely the cause. i like to only do one side at a time when doing drum brakes to keep the other side as a reference. but i would really really look hard at the where the shoes sit on the anchor to see they are seated right and that the e brake cable is in its slot on its arm and that the star adjuster sits perfect against the shoes. and again make sure they move with the drums off as they should. i dont believe there is a cable adjustment so its got to be in the brake assembly , look hard , use a reference picture , youll find the problem. This is all mechanical and made very simple , just use your brain and look hard , those tire shop guys are no better than most of the weekend mechanics , i know , ive worked at a few.

 

http://www.justanswer.com/dodge/3qpe...n-correct.html

that page has a diagram

 

Maybe if it's a crap shop...

 

true comment , most of my experiences have been bad , i worked at 2 firestones , pep boys and big o tires and 90% of the guys ive worked with were in experienced or null experience. a good shop usually can provide proof os ASE cert but its off topic. fix the e brake yet?

 

I did have the drums off while I had my cousin pull the lever. It would move the front shoe, but not the rear. But I figured one the drum was on, the back pressure from the front shoe would cause the rear shoe to act. I think you're right though. I've been studying the f*uck out of my haynes manual, using the reference pics along the way, and I thing the self-adjuster are just isn't tight enough. I'll try to tighten it until I can barely get it on, then adjust as necessary via the plug in the back with a flat head. I'm pretty sure the passenger side's on, because with the center console out, the cable joiner is uneven biased the passenger side. I'll get a chance to mess with it tomorrow. I'll let you know how it goes. Any more advice in the mean time would be greatly appreciated though =]

 

duo servo / self energizing brakes work off eachother but the leading trailing does not so its working right. cant offer anything else over the computer , just adjust em till they drag a bit and it should be ok if you have all the components on right