If the floor outlet air temperature is insufficient (which it is in your case as you are not getting hot air at all, let alone the temperatures you should be getting):

Both heater hoses should be HOT to the touch (coolant return hose should be slightly cooler than the supply hose). If coolant return hose is much cooler than the supply hose, locate and repair engine coolant flow obstruction in heater system.
POSSIBLE LOCATIONS OR CAUSE OF OBSTRUCTED COOLANT FLOW
(1) Pinched or kinked heater hoses.
(2) Improper heater hose routing.
(3) Plugged heater hoses or supply and return ports at cooling system connections.
(4) Plugged heater core.
(5) Air locked heater core.
(6) If coolant flow is verified and outlet temperature is insufficient, a mechanical problem may exist.
POSSIBLE LOCATION OR CAUSE OF INSUFFICIENT HEAT
(1) Obstructed cowl air intake.
(2) Obstructed heater system outlets.
(3) Blend door not functioning properly.
TEMPERATURE CONTROL
If temperature cannot be adjusted with the Temperature **** one of the following could require service:
(1) Blend door binding.
(2) Faulty temperature control cable.
(3) Improper engine coolant temperature.
(4) Faulty A/C-heater Control.

 

Actually I haven't. I've been told by many that the thermostat would have nothing to do with the heater not blowing hot air. The engine is warming up to normal operating temperature according to the gauge...

 

Thank you darth. Lots of valuable info. I'll check into those

 

Again, the factory gauge is at "normal" as long as the temperature is in a "normal range."
Yup.

 

What do you mean that "factory gauge is at normal as long as the temperature is in normal rang"? Not sure what you mean by that...

 

If you have an aftermarket (real) gauge, it'll tell you the exact temperature, yeah? The factory (dummy) gauges read normal as long as what ever is being monitored, water temperature for example, is within a specified range. Let's say the factory sensor is looking for a range of 160°F to 240°F. If the coolant temperature is within that range, the gauge is at "normal." So, the water temperature could be at 160°F, or 240°F, and the needle will be in the same spot on the gauge.

 

Oh wow. I didnt know that. So if you buy an aftermarket it is displays the temperature acurately? With an aftermarket gauge I assume you would have to replace the instrument cluster? And if so then the mileage will not be actual?

Now for the good news It was the thermostat after all. I wish I would have just started there first for how inexpensive it was and only took about 20 minutes. I was worried at first after we replaced it because on my way home from my buddies house the car looked as though it was going to overheat. The heat was blowing a lot warmer than before but the gauge was almost in the red (first picture) I drove from my buddies house to my apartment 5 miles away and the gauge would jump from as high as it is in the first pic down to operating temp... back and forth. Got home and two hours later went to dinner with some friends. The car heated to normal temp in about 10 minutes , stayed at the normal mark and was blowing hot air. In fact it got so hot I had to turn the temp down lol

Might try replacing the Thermostat in My Mitsubishi Spyder again as its the same symptons. Tried it once but maybe faulty part... I can only hope

 

You buy something like an Autometer gauge and install it in a gauge pod. Glad to hear it is fixed now though! Looks like you had cause #6 in the coolant flow area.

 

Ok I was kinda thinking that was the direction you were going with the gauge. I was wondering if I can swap out my instrument cluster with one that has a tach??? I know it's not a vig deal but I don't like the extra gauges added to the dash or pillar post. Since my current instrument cluster doesn't have an RPM gauge, can I replace it with kne that does? If so will the tach work? And that also leads to my precious question... What about the read on the mileage???

 

Previous* question... Not "precious" lol!!! Damn Autocorrect on iPhone lol