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Timing Belt/Water Pump Questions


Old 04-29-2012, 07:52 PM
JoeDD is offline
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Posts: 20
Default Timing Belt/Water Pump Questions

I need to replace the leaking water pump on my 2004 Dodge Neon 2.0
I've replaced many Timing belts over the years but never a Neon.
Just have a couple questions....

I have searched the forum and got some great tips already just unsure of a couple things.

1) I have a low torque impact..will this be enough to remove HB bolt ?,if not any tips on breaking it loose?

2)Autozone rents a 3 jaw puller for HB..will this work or do i need the exact puller for Chrysler HB's?

3)What size bolt do i need to get with washers to reinstall HB?

4)I'm unclear on the tensioner.....instuctions say to loosen nut and use 6 mm allen to rotate tensioner away from belt,i get that but is it spring loaded where i have to tighen nut to hold it when loosened?
What is the correct way to loosen it and then reinstall it?...just dial it back to where it contacts belt and tighten nut?

5) Is it necessary to relearn cam and crank after install?..will it run if i dont? or do i have to take it to a shop with a DRB for a relearn?

Sorry for all the questions,just trying to better understand it .

Any tips from those who've done this would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance
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Old 04-30-2012, 08:31 PM
joester is offline
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 62

1. HB can be held in place with a piece of 2X4 wedged between the lower torque mount and HB. I used a standard 1/2 ratchet. DO NOT RET TO PUT A LARGE SCREWDRIVER THROUGH THE HB SPOKES TO THE BLOCK TO PREVENT THE HB FROM TURNING. You will hear a sickening snap as your plastic belt cover breaks at the bottom.
2. Autozone 3 jaw puller will work fine.
3. I used a medium ball-peen hammer and a block of wood to drive the HB onto the shaft enough to get the regular bolt to bite. "Soft" blows will do it.
4. I think your '04 is different than my '01. I'll let someone else chime in on that point. Mine has a spring loaded piston type tensioner that required I think 20lbs of torque while the piston was held against the tensioner assembly and tightened. Sounds tough, but it was actually one of the easier parts of the process with 4 hands involved.
5. Since the battery will be disconnected, the computer will relearn everything it needs to. Just make sure the alignment marks for the cam and crankshaft agree with each other. turn the engine over by hand several times with the spark plugs removed to verify the lack of internal interference. ANY detectable resistance means the timing is probably off.

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Old 05-01-2012, 01:44 AM
JoeDD is offline
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 20

Hey Joe

Thanks for responding...thats what i needed to know

Sounds like maybe you've heard that"sickening snap" before...LOL...ok,wont do that...

I have to do the heater core on this as well.
Any tricks/tips/Shortcuts?

Thanks again

Joe D
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Old 05-01-2012, 07:16 AM
joester is offline
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 62

I know the sickening snap very well. In fact, all too well.
I haven't done a heater core and don't expect my Neon to be around long enough for me to replace one.
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Old 05-01-2012, 02:12 PM
TejasMtnBiker is offline
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Dallas
Posts: 660

tips and tricks I used pb penetrate oil a day before on all the bolts, and a good soaking on the harmonic balance'r DONT GET ANY ON THE RUBBER most importantly. I also used the smaller puller which seem to have worked better then the bigger ones I rented at autozone. But replace all the goods in there, the tensioner will be a manual loaded one, easy to install and put tension on. It's basically the same design as the SRT-4 tensioner.

this might make you feel a lil better about the replacement.

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Old 05-01-2012, 08:38 PM
Moparkyle is offline
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Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 955

As for the tensioner there is a small window that the spring tang has to be lined up with when it is tightened. I don't quite remember which way the tensioner has to be turned but if you have a manual there isn't much to it.

Also I found if you used a block of wood and jacked the engine by the oil pan it goes a lot more smoothly than where the shop manual has you doing it.
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