Hi guys,

I've been reading around the forum and have found posts about other neons etc. some people say this stuff is semi-easy enough for someone somewhat technical/mechanical to be able to do on their own or with some small help from a shop for certain things like pressing bushings if need be.

I got a quote for $1000 from budget, my friends said they are pretty honest/good work at this budget in town. I've gone to other shops for other work but the last shop I went to I inspected their work done on a replaced rad and noticed the finishing result wasn't the best for how they put the car back together(screws missing on the grill to the chassis, air filter box corner that ties into chassis was broken off and not jerry-rigged to be held back in place so it was loose) so I'm not wanting to go back there due to their finishing results and who knows how else the other work they've done was..

I have the 'alldata' program that has information/schematics for my car but I cannot find information that talks about the tie-rod in the program. I've found info about the lower control arms however.

shop said they believe my lower control arms should be replaced, not just the bushings and one tie rod should be replaced as well. They said a kit will be needed to be purchased as well, im guessing the kit includes stuff like bushing? not too sure on all the parts required.

From other posts when people have replaced bushings/control arms they've said it should cost around 50$ in parts for kit/part and then 60-100$ labour, not sure how all this stuff budget says will cost $1000 total. Also they said they'll do a oil change included on the $1000.

I really don't want to spend all that money on this car, I just got the radiator replaced two weeks ago and knew that i was hearing some slight clunking from time to time with my passenger side wheel which from reading people state is the lower control arm and budget confirmed.

What else should i be replacing if anyone could lay out all the parts/kits required that I could try to find online? I have a friend who is a metal fab person so they can help me torch off the bushings, they may even be able to do shop press stuff for me too.

Also budget said when I stated I could get the parts maybe at 'lordco' for cheaper since a friend of mine can get discounts, they stated that lordco is only for parts that are consumer replaceable and they wont have all this stuff so they wouldn't fully tell me the parts required to get it all done since they believe they're giving me a good discount already on labour/parts and they also noted they don't want me buying parts and bringing it to them due to the parts maybe not being of good quality and then it causing an accident.

If I can do this work myself what liabilities are there here in Canada for doing that sort of work yourself and not going to a shop? If something breaks from being a crappy part for instance or if I didn't install something correctly how would that play with the insurance companies if a accident was to occur? Is this something we as consumers can fix on our own or is it something that has to be done by a certified mechanic to not void insurance?

Thanks for taking the time to read my post and any information you can provide would be appreciated.

 

the only thing that i can see that needs to be pressed out and in is the ball joint and maybe the bushings other than that the only reason to replace the control arm is if it is bent. autozone has the whole control arm including the ball joint for $99.99 and a new tie rod end for about $20 so about $220 and some elbow grease and your set

 

So all that is pre pressed? how difficult do you think the installation will be? rate out of 10 if you could take a guess, I have a friend that has more mechanical experience than myself that will be helping me too so I think it should be something we can take on. Also I'll need to get wheel alignment done after this installation right? so I'm guessing the whole cost should be 300-400 max to do myself/alignment at shop.

 

i would put the install at around a 3-4 and if you put the tie rod end on correctly alignment shouldn't be needed

 

people at work suggested I buy from this site, they pointed me to these parts, can anyone else confirm this is all I'll need?



left/right control arm
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...946&cc=1438562
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...006&cc=1438562

not sure which tie rod pieces I'll need?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,7428

is there anything else I should be doing while I've got access to those area's?

also i prefer to use quality parts not just the cheapest stuff. don't want to have to be doing this again for a long time so I'd rather invest in quality upfront.

Not sure if these are better to get for the control arms?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...047&cc=1413234
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...001&cc=1413234

 

moog has great quality products and i would just replace the tie rod end as that's what gets the most stress and would suggest this one http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...079&cc=1438562

 

thanks for the feedback.

My friend has tools, not sure if he has everything required to do this job however.

I've been watching some youtubes and see people have tie rod tools that help slip the tie rod off easier etc.

I was also wanting to buy a few general tools so I can start doing more stuff myself instead of always taking it to shops from now.

I don't have any car type tools really myself. Any suggestions on sites that have some good tools for fair prices?

I'd like to get some torque wrenches, been checking out aliexpress.com but they have quite a few choices.

if anyone has some tools they recommend I grab online please post links and I'll see if I can get them. thx in advance.

 

also I found this kit when watching some youtubes one site makes.

their site had this full kit for the tierods/arms:

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/front-contr...56/629193/2003

maybe this is better to go with? not sure on the quality of these brands however.

 

Moog is the brand you would want to use if your going to replace Control arms (with ball joint and bushing) and you should use Moog for Outer Tie Rod Ends.

For the Outer Tie Rod Ends you will want part # MOOG Part # ES3173RL, its pricy but its the best. I went with Driveworks, half the price but half the quality. I'm a cheap *** and will have to do them again in a year i bet. I removed them fairly easily. I used a puller to pop the tie rod out of the knuckle. I know some people will just give it a good whack with a hammer (Hitting the knuckle, not the tie rod!) and it will pop out, i didnt have that luck. When i do them again I'll try the Tie Rod Puller...$10-$15 I'll spend if its as easy as slipping it in and pulling up. To unscrew it spray some PB blaster on the Jam nut let it soak for 5 minutes and start to loosen it, always easier said than done. Make sure you count the revolutions you do as you unscrew, and check the length of the new Tie Rod as compared to your old one. I made the mistake of leaving the nut where it was originally and then screwing the new Tie rod in about 3/4 of an inch to far. Talk about bad alignment.

The Control arms I would only mess with if the Bushing (back section that connects to the K-Frame with a Vertical Bolt) is cracked, popping out, or in my case no where to be seen. The clunking is most likely from turning and that vertical bolt is just wobbling in there. If you can pinpoint which one it is just do the one, I did both because I'm OCD like that. The Control arms will come with the ball joints and Bushings pressed in, its an easy unbolt and pop in the new ones. Well, no I had a hell of a time getting some bolts out because they where rusted to hell since I lived in New England. The Driver side I couldn't get one bolt out because it was hitting the transmission oil pan, i had to drop part of the K-member to lower it all and pull out. The passenger side you have to take the bottom Torque Strut out Part # 2949 so if the rubber is cracked and moves a lot (Should be fairly hard to move) you should just replace since your removing it anyways.

You have to pop the ball joint out of the knuckle, i think i used a screw driver and a cheater bar. I also found it was a lot easier to unbolt the Struts to the knuckle, its two uhh 15 or 18mm...I think 18mm sounds right bolts that attach it to the knuckle. Spray it with PB Blaster and unbolt. The knuckle will be free to fall, only connected by drive axle at this point (unless I'm forgetting something), just set it down slowly or better yet hang it with some wire attached to the strut. Now all you have to do is removed the control arm themselves and go in reverse. It's not all that bad of a job, but sucked a lot not knowing the route i had to go. You will want at least 18 inches of room to crawl under the car, make sure its solid as hell because your going to be beating it to death not to mention under it. It'll probably take 3-5 hours.

You asked about tools earlier, I also started buying some over the last 8 months so i can do my own car maintenance. I bought a bunch of Sockets and what not from Lowes, the Kobalt brand. Honestly they are a nice tool and have the lifetime replacement. Plus i get a discount since I work there.

That full kit seems way to good to be true because Moog/Dorman Control Arms are $99-120 a piece, Outer Tie Rod ends $25-55...I go by the saying if its to good to be true it probably is. I've never ordered off Rockauto, I hear mixed reviews. I buy everything from Advance ONLINE. get codes for 15-40% or max savings of $50...I've saved hundreds that way. You order and pick up in 15 minutes haha.

 

dont forget to remove the stabilizer bar from the control arm