Just recently I've had issues with my neon shutting off randomly. The first time it did it, the car turned over, then immediately shut off. After several starting attempts and about 20 minutes later the car started fine. I thought maybe the engine had flooded. A few days later, while idling in traffic, the car shut off but it turned right back on. This pattern has happened four times now.

What I've noticed is that it happens within a minute or so of the car starting or when idling in traffic. The alternator and battery both passed testing and I've checked for vacuum leaks as well as clean the throttle body, IAC, and clean oil build up at the bottom of the intake manifold.

I don't have any CEL or codes stored. The car has always had a rough idle, but recently it seems like its been dropping lower ~500 rpm. Car feels fine when accelerating. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

What about plugs and wires? How many miles? What engine/transmission?

 

Car is a 2.0 ATX and has 118,00 miles on it. Plugs and wires were replaced about a year ago.

 

Check your battery posts, battery terminals and wires, and engine grounds for corrosion.

 

Wow flashback... I went through this on my 97. Turned out to be the ASD relay. On it I just swapped the relays from one box to another, I do not know about on yours. I have not had an issue since swapping the relays around.

 

Yeah, the ASD relay will certainly get corroded as well (or just go bad). Good call.

 

After several more no starts and engine dying at idle, the CEL came on with the code P0335 (Crankshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction). The car runs fine once it manages to start. Anything else that could be the culprit before I try changing the sensor? I see I have to remove the structural collar between the oil pan and transmission to get access. Also, I did change the timing belt about four months ago and am a little worried something may have slipped in there, although it runs smooth once it turns on.

 

It could be the sensor, no doubt. Make sure you look at the wiring too though.

 

So far everything looks good after changing the crank sensor. No more CEL or hard starts or random dying, though it still idles rough. I'm not sure why the manual says to remove the structural collar as I was able to reach everything fine. Good thing I didn't change the alternator like the guys at O'rielly's said to!

Does the crank sensor fully explain my car's symptoms though? Recently, before I changed the sensor, the coolant temperature gauge needle rapidly dropped from normal temp all the way to cold. Any ideas if this relates to the crank sensor in a round about way?