I have a 2000 LE (Chrysler canadian model) that has been relatively solid for me but for the past month it's been causing me some headaches.

First, I came back from a 2 week vacation and went to go start the car. It would crank but wouldn't turn over. I checked all my connections, pulled a plug and tested the coil pack with a screwdriver (carefully haha), and everything seemed fine. Put it back, it started, but then the next day wouldn't and back and forth I went. I ended up replacing the coil pack as our junker here in Calgary was having a sale and I got it for 16 bucks or something.

That seemed to have fixed the non-start issue, but now I'm having another issue which I don't think is unrelated, but I thought I'd throw that info up there.

After I would get it started, I would take it for a few test drives as I didn't want to get stranded by stopping the car somewhere, but on a few drives I would feel like a lurch or jerk as I was coasting along (not shifting gears), where it seemed I would lose power but only for a fraction of a second. Not long enough for me to notice anything on the dash or anything like that.

Now on my last test run it got quite bad so I parked it and left it for a day. Went to go let it idle the other night and it just died after about 4 minutes of idling. Tried to start it right away with no luck (crank but no turn). Let it sit for about a minute and it started again but died quicker (15 seconds or so).

I have an ODBII scanner and I got zero codes.

This all leads me to believe it could be the fuel filter (regulator), as I would think the crank position would throw a code, same with the fuel pump? Is this correct to think?

Any other ideas I'm overlooking that I should check out?

 

do you hear the fuel pump kick on when you turn the ignition key to run?

 

I do.

 

did you do the key jingle to get the codes? on off, on off, on as it will display the error code out in the mileage part of the dash

 

I checked the codes with my ODBII scanner, but I'll try the key method later. I would suspect both methods should work but I'll give it a try.

 

is any of the wiring harness tore up at the pcm area?

 

Nope it appears in good shape

 

one more thing to check is the transmission neutral safety switch, in the past with broken motor mounts the engine will pull on the pigtail an create a short. Usually when its shorted it keeps it from starting, not stalling. Im gonna bet your issue is in the wiring

 

here's a photo of the area im referring to

 

Thanks for the picture. I'll take a look at the area later today or tomorrow if I get some time.