Timing belt and water pump replacement
Ok so I had timing belt and water pump replaced today and now when the cars running there a fairly inconsistent grinding/scraping noise. Shop that did it claims it needs to break in... That sounds like non sense to me. Anyone else experience this?
Had a shop replace my timing belt & wp, flush coolant, replace thermostat & radiator hoses & the serp & alternator belts last year & all was & is quiet afterwards.
SO, were any of your old external belts also replaced?
Did they use a New, or Reman water pump & did they also replace the timing belt idler pulley?
Can you tell us what area of the engine the noise is coming from & if it sounds like it's internal, or external to the engine.
SO, were any of your old external belts also replaced?
Did they use a New, or Reman water pump & did they also replace the timing belt idler pulley?
Can you tell us what area of the engine the noise is coming from & if it sounds like it's internal, or external to the engine.
Had a shop replace my timing belt & wp, flush coolant, replace thermostat & radiator hoses & the serp & alternator belts last year & all was & is quiet afterwards.
SO, were any of your old external belts also replaced?
Did they use a New, or Reman water pump & did they also replace the timing belt idler pulley?
Can you tell us what area of the engine the noise is coming from & if it sounds like it's internal, or external to the engine.
SO, were any of your old external belts also replaced?
Did they use a New, or Reman water pump & did they also replace the timing belt idler pulley?
Can you tell us what area of the engine the noise is coming from & if it sounds like it's internal, or external to the engine.
Ok, so the timing belt idler pulley wasn't replaced, so maybe it's bearings belong on the suspect list for the noise.
Seeing as how you say the engine is also shaking, you may have more than one problem.
Is the shake in time with the noise & or do you have a flashing CEL light, that would indicate a cylinder misfire, if so, the engine computer will set a trouble code to indicate which cyl is acting out.
If you have a scan tool, or code reader, have it scan the engine computer for trouble codes & post All code Numbers as they can provide good trouble shooting clues.
If you don't have a scan tool, or code reader & the CEL is lit, or flashing, most auto parts stores will scan for trouble codes at no cost. Write down & post the code Numbers.
Seeing as how you say the engine is also shaking, you may have more than one problem.
Is the shake in time with the noise & or do you have a flashing CEL light, that would indicate a cylinder misfire, if so, the engine computer will set a trouble code to indicate which cyl is acting out.
If you have a scan tool, or code reader, have it scan the engine computer for trouble codes & post All code Numbers as they can provide good trouble shooting clues.
If you don't have a scan tool, or code reader & the CEL is lit, or flashing, most auto parts stores will scan for trouble codes at no cost. Write down & post the code Numbers.
Last edited by paw paw; Oct 14, 2016 at 06:33 PM.
Sounds bogus to me. When you change the timing belt all should be quiet. You have to remove all 3 of the motor mounts when you change the timing belt on a neon. Maybe your shaking/noise is that they didn't get them back on properly?
Also I dont know exactly which years it does or doesnt work on but i know for a fact it does on my 03, If you need to pull codes without a reader you can turn the key on just as soon as the lights on the dash come on turn the key off. Do this 3-4 times quickly (about half a second on and half a second off) and leave the key on (dont try to start it) and the car will give you the codes on the odometer (they will just say Pxxxx, Pxxxx, done)
Also I dont know exactly which years it does or doesnt work on but i know for a fact it does on my 03, If you need to pull codes without a reader you can turn the key on just as soon as the lights on the dash come on turn the key off. Do this 3-4 times quickly (about half a second on and half a second off) and leave the key on (dont try to start it) and the car will give you the codes on the odometer (they will just say Pxxxx, Pxxxx, done)
Ok, so the timing belt idler pulley wasn't replaced, so maybe it's bearings belong on the suspect list for the noise.
Seeing as how you say the engine is also shaking, you may have more than one problem.
Is the shake in time with the noise & or do you have a flashing CEL light, that would indicate a cylinder misfire, if so, the engine computer will set a trouble code to indicate which cyl is acting out.
If you have a scan tool, or code reader, have it scan the engine computer for trouble codes & post All code Numbers as they can provide good trouble shooting clues.
If you don't have a scan tool, or code reader & the CEL is lit, or flashing, most auto parts stores will scan for trouble codes at no cost. Write down & post the code Numbers.
Seeing as how you say the engine is also shaking, you may have more than one problem.
Is the shake in time with the noise & or do you have a flashing CEL light, that would indicate a cylinder misfire, if so, the engine computer will set a trouble code to indicate which cyl is acting out.
If you have a scan tool, or code reader, have it scan the engine computer for trouble codes & post All code Numbers as they can provide good trouble shooting clues.
If you don't have a scan tool, or code reader & the CEL is lit, or flashing, most auto parts stores will scan for trouble codes at no cost. Write down & post the code Numbers.
Consider this vibration analysis flow chart to see if it'll help narrow down the suspects. & let us know how it goes.
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...low-chart.html
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...low-chart.html
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They're anchor brand. I've read mopar is the only way to go so that'll be my next try
I took the torque struts off and redid the alignment procedure. Almost no shake now. Still a slight vibration but not enough to irritate me anymore. Still have the factory center mount and trans mount but anchor brand torque struts. So all is somewhat good... For now


