Battery Tutorial
#1
10-16-2016, 03:48 PM
Battery Tutorial
Well it's that time of year, when batteries & alternators go belly up!!!!
Poke around this site, it has answers to just about any question we're likely to have about batteries.
From how to choose, care for, test, & charge. Which charger type to use & why, to who makes which brand of battery.
Even how to use your digital multi-meter to measure battery cable voltage drop, or open circuit state of charge, ect, ect.
Enjoy the info, I sure have.
http://www.jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/
From the tutorial, the bottom line on battery replacement.
"1.6. When buying a replacement starting battery, buy the heaviest and freshest battery compatible with the vehicle's charging system, with the largest Reserve Capacity (RC) and longest free replacement warranty that will physically fit in your vehicle, and sized with the Cold Cranking Amp (CCA) performance for the coldest climate the engine is started in. Normally replacing the OEM battery with the same type and size is the best choice. For deep cycle batteries, buy the freshest and heaviest battery with thickest plates and Amp Hour (AH) capacity that best suits the application, matches the charger, and has the lowest total cost of ownership.) (Please see Section 7.)"
Note that if our rides came with a flooded cell lead acid battery, the alternator will have a charging circuit for that type battery. SO, if we come along and install/replace it with say a gel cell battery, we should also have the alternator charging circuit changed to one designed to take care of a gel cell battery, as the charging profile for those two different chemistries is different.
How to use our DVM to perform voltage drop tests that'll uncover poor/high electrical resistance electrical connections.
Use this test procedure to check the under load voltage drop condition of our battery B+ & B- cable electrical connections, including the cable end termination lug, or clamp, to wire strand cable connection resistance & the cable connection runs between the battery post & cable clamp, or the engine, or body grounds & the B+ connection to the power distribution box & alternator. http://aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm
Using our DVM to check the no load/resting voltage/SOC = State Of Charge, of batteries without removable cell caps. It's not as accurate as being able to remove the cell caps to measure each cell specific gravity with a hydrometer, but if the battery is sealed, or doesn't have removable cell caps, it's our next quick check option.
http://manins.net.au/motorhome/images/stateofcharge.png
Poke around this site, it has answers to just about any question we're likely to have about batteries.
From how to choose, care for, test, & charge. Which charger type to use & why, to who makes which brand of battery.
Even how to use your digital multi-meter to measure battery cable voltage drop, or open circuit state of charge, ect, ect.
Enjoy the info, I sure have.
http://www.jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/
From the tutorial, the bottom line on battery replacement.
"1.6. When buying a replacement starting battery, buy the heaviest and freshest battery compatible with the vehicle's charging system, with the largest Reserve Capacity (RC) and longest free replacement warranty that will physically fit in your vehicle, and sized with the Cold Cranking Amp (CCA) performance for the coldest climate the engine is started in. Normally replacing the OEM battery with the same type and size is the best choice. For deep cycle batteries, buy the freshest and heaviest battery with thickest plates and Amp Hour (AH) capacity that best suits the application, matches the charger, and has the lowest total cost of ownership.) (Please see Section 7.)"
Note that if our rides came with a flooded cell lead acid battery, the alternator will have a charging circuit for that type battery. SO, if we come along and install/replace it with say a gel cell battery, we should also have the alternator charging circuit changed to one designed to take care of a gel cell battery, as the charging profile for those two different chemistries is different.
How to use our DVM to perform voltage drop tests that'll uncover poor/high electrical resistance electrical connections.
Use this test procedure to check the under load voltage drop condition of our battery B+ & B- cable electrical connections, including the cable end termination lug, or clamp, to wire strand cable connection resistance & the cable connection runs between the battery post & cable clamp, or the engine, or body grounds & the B+ connection to the power distribution box & alternator. http://aa1car.com/library/voltage_drop_testing.htm
Using our DVM to check the no load/resting voltage/SOC = State Of Charge, of batteries without removable cell caps. It's not as accurate as being able to remove the cell caps to measure each cell specific gravity with a hydrometer, but if the battery is sealed, or doesn't have removable cell caps, it's our next quick check option.
http://manins.net.au/motorhome/images/stateofcharge.png
Last edited by paw paw; 10-16-2016 at 07:13 PM.